Santiago de Compostella to Sanxenxo, 56.1 miles, 06/09/04

Tuesday? can't remember.

Misty start today, low cloud and everything damp. Santiago is hidden in a fog. That didn't deaden the fireworks though, every 20 minutes or so all day and a lot of the night, rockets and huge bangers going off. Sounds like a war zone here, maybe the Moors are all doing the Camino.
I didnt notice it so much at first, too busy sleeping, but after 2 nights rest it started to get a little "intrusive".
An invitation for coffee and breakfast from Theo and Jannie, very nice.
They have a perfect pitch here low down on the hill looking over the town. Same one he had 5 years ago the last time he did the Camino, only this time he's brought his new wife.
Swapped emails etc, if I dont make it to Italy then a run through Belgium to Holland is definately on the cards.
Paid up E23.50 for 3 nights... bargain. Theres a good supermarket, a bar/cafe, a laundry service, and internet at E4 an hour. "As Cancelas" off the Avenida de Lugo.
Getting out of Santiago is not too easy, looking for N550 and ended up on the C841. Problem.
The C841 not on my map, (another map misprint, its C541), through Puentevea, Cuntis, Caldas de Reis, Villagarcia, what a mess, another town to avoid, a complete dump and it goes on and on.....
Villanova nothing special, but Cambados a big surprise, taking the signs for through traffic aiming for Sanxenxo took me straight into the old town.
Granite sets, tourists with cameras, old buildings, nice cafes and bars, all stone built. An instant change from scruffy concrete and breezeblock houses, litter and peeling paint, within 50 yards I was riding through a picture postcard town. Lasted about 1/4 mile then back to the mess again.
First sight of the Atlantic here, could smell it for miles but now I'm riding alongside it, sea to sea again, 08.08.04 to 06.09.04.
Took the signs for A Toxa then turned off to Sanxenxo. Different town again, things got smarter as I approached. Fresh paint and no litter, good signs, no graffitti, this is more like northern France. Down to the seafront and a lovely beach with a big granite sea wall, all clean.
Follow this link for a view of a Live Sanxenxo wecam
A good town for a holiday. Rocky coastline here but with good beaches stretching in a big curve, a good view. Found the campsite east of the town, "Airinos de Mar", Playa de Areas.
A house/hotel/bar/cafe with camping in the back garden, 5 tents here now and peace and quiet, no fireworks!! Close enough to hear the sea (less than 100 yards), I will sleep well tonight, its only a 2 minute walk away. Will be there tomw morning early and quiet, feet in the Atlantic this time. That´ll be 2 oceans I've polluted so far on this trip haha.
Thunderstorm and raining, whats new, the rain in spain falls mainly on the cyclists.
Noticed a big difference after a few days off, my legs are stronger. 25 miles came up in no time at all, surprising as there were some decent hills earlier today. 56.14 miles in 4 h 49 min riding time.
Nice to be choosing my own route again, 6 supermarkets today, and camping wherever I want it.
The camino is a superb route, with amazingly friendly people, a world in itself- beautiful, but lack of sleep, and lack of good shops for long distances make it hard work, that said I would definately like to do it again someday. An experience not to be missed.
2936 miles now, a good day tomw will see me to 3000. I celebrated my first 1000 in France (near Le Blanc from memory) but I could not have possibly imagined the next 2000. wonder where I will be at 4000?



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