Hit The Road

Hit The Road..

2004-12-25T20:49:00.008Z

This Blog is a record of a cycling trip.

A diary written whilst travelling from here

Friskney, near Boston, Lincolnshire, England. 02 June 04

To here.....

Gibraltar. 14 Oct 04

Covering 4,330 miles, all on this bike, and passing through....

Lescun, Southern France

Canfranc, just over the Pyrennees and into Spain

The Camino de Santiago de Compostelle -
here alongside the N120 near Astorga,
Northern Spain

Salvatierra de Minho - Spanish and Portuguese border

Fatima, Portugal

I spent all of the trip camping in the green tent that you see above.
Below is a list of campsites and my route marked on Google Earth.
Zoom in and change to "map" to see my route.

View Larger Map

This blog is an aide memoire for myself for future years, when I begin to forget the details....

For an overview of the trip go to the Route Guide at the top right of this page. This gives a list of starting and finishing points for each days travel showing distances covered and time riding. Each day in the list is linked to its appropriate blogpage and the list shows how many photos are in each post.

Alternatively, all the diary entries are laid out day to day. Follow the links under "All blog entries" at the top right of this page. Subsequent days will appear at the bottom of the list as you travel through it.

I hope you find something useful here, route or equipment, average mileage or camping costs.....

My apologies for the standard of English in these pages. I wrote them directly from my notes and have not edited them - that keeps a certain, ahem, flavour :))

Any comments? Contact me here: Mail To Author or use the blogger comments section at the bottom of each post (moderated).

Good luck with your own journey.

Thanks for visiting,
Rob.

Equipment List..

2004-12-25T20:38:00.000Z

First a few pictures....

All I need for the day is here, the mirror is essential.
The bar-ends allow for plenty of changes of hand
position during the day.
Camera, binoculars, mob phone with 9v battery charger,
diary with todays rough route and the largest
bag of boiled sweets I can find (beat the bonk)
are in the barbag.
Roadmap is in a bag bungeed into the water bottle holder.
Thermometer taped onto the crossbar.

The tent is designed with tension straps from
the ground anchors to the pole apex to aid bad
weather stability, these straps
are perfect for keeping the bike steady
and upright inside the tent porch at night.
Both bike and trailer fit perfectly with no adjustments.
The green tarp used to cover the trailer
whilst riding doubles as a porch groundsheet
inside the tent. The clip hanging from the
centre of the tentpole is for the evening's trash.

Home Sweet Home... Done all the cleaning,
servicing and repairs. Now just to lean against
the tree and fall asleep.

Bungees holding a coiled spare tyre and 2 litre
water bottle (under a fleece to keep it cooler)
to the top of the trailer.
Towel drying at the back.
Rear rack holds tent on top, panniers hold
tools on the side facing the camera,
food and water the other.
Road map is rolled in a bag, bungeed into the
water bottle holder, under the lock.

Solar lamps on the back here are standard
garden lights (B+Q) hanging on extended bolts,
they give enough light to read/write at night.
The bike stand is a loop of narrow tape webbing
tied around the crossbar and held to the ground
with 2 tent pegs placed 6" apart and angled at roughly 45'.
As long as the front wheel is
not allowed to turn (bungee to frame) then this
is perfect for anywhere with soft ground and will
take careful loading and unloading easily.

Equipment

Bike. Giant "Boulder", completely standard.

Tyres. Non specific brand dual road/trail. 26" x 1.25"
Later in the trip I opted for knobbly on the back and dual on the front.

Trip comp. Sigma

Bar bag. Karrimor

Lights. Smart halogen

Trailer. Koolstop Wilderbeast.

Tent. Vango Equinox TBS 350

Bar ends, Mirror, rear rack, all Decathlon non branded products.
Sprung saddle and sprung saddle post, non branded.
panniers, non branded.

Tools/equipment:

Socket screwdriver plus assorted bits,
flat blade and phillips screwdrivers,
Metric allen key set,
Pliers, wire clippers,
spare nuts bolts+washers,
cable ties (zip ties)
gaffer tape
oil,
torch, batteries,
spoke key
3 spare innertubes
(1 x presta, 1 x schraeder, 1 x 16" wheel)
spare tyre (from Estelle onwards),
tarp 2m x 1m
2 tyre levers,
2 small tyre pumps,
2 puncture repair kits
thermometer,
binoculars,
2 solar charging lamps,
Alu cookset,
knife fork spoon,
camping gaz stove,
camping gaz lamp,
emergency mob phone charger (9v battery),
washing line,
basic first aid kit,
writing materials,
camera,
2m light chain + padlock,
8 bungees
tape webbing slings
spare tent pegs,
shackle lock
4 karabiners with extenders
small "freeplay" wind up radio
wash kit,
sunglasses,
soap powder,
plug,
ajungilak nordic lite sleeping bag,
6 reed airbed,
foam sleeping mat,
rough guide to Spain,
lonely planet cycling guide to France,
road atlas-France,
road atlas Portugal/Spain,
2pocket language guides
english-french,french-portuguese.

The top pic is of my mobile phone charger, it takes a standard small 9v battery roughly a couple hours to charge the phone, allowing a days texting to friends and family. It was my most treasured item of kit but it wasn't a robust unit, and ended up splinted to a tent peg with gaffer tape. Things got decidedly hit and miss with this charger towards the end of the trip.

The bottom picture is a weightsaving reminder, you only really need half a pair of binoculars.............

Orphaned Photos...no Diary for these yet..

2004-12-25T20:33:00.000Z

Berdun, northern Spain

Another everlasting Camino hill, Foncebadon.

Cruz de Ferro, near Foncebadon, Camino, Northern Spain

Napoleonic Fort, 1848, built to guard the pass through the Pyrennees.
Fort de Portalet, Southern France

Dam on the Rio Zezere at Castelo de Bode, Portugal
Dozens of these dams in northern Portugal.
For scale, those are large trucks crossing it.

Tip of the Penninsula de Troia from the campsite at Outao, near Setubal, Portugal

Crossing the Rio Tejo, Portugal.Footpath not wide enough for the bike and bridge not wide enough for 2 lorries, worrying.

The Monastery at Batalha, Portugal. UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Batalha.

Nazare, Portugal. scanned postcard

Campsite at Melides, Portugal

Back roads, southern Portugal, peace and quiet....

Coast near Lagos, Algarve, Portugal

The trains are regular,but not as noisy as the packs of dogs that try getting through the campsite fence at night.

Crossing the river Guadiana from Portugal back into Spain

Huelva, Spain

Full size replicas of the ships that Columbus used
to sail to America, in Huelva, Spain

The Santa Maria

Chris Columbus, at home with a few beers

Columbus monument, Huelva.

Vejer De Frontera, Southwestern Spain

Camsite at Tarifa

Looking down onto Tarifa, with Africa across the sea. scanned postcard.

Tarifa Beach, 6km of sand and a windsurfers paradise. scanned postcard

Bike in front of Africa, maybe I should go the extra mile and catch the ferry....

Halfway to Gibraltar from Tarifa,up a mountain
a perfect day, a perfect view....until..

just my luck..hah

Down the hill into Algeciras, almost at the end of the trip, Gibraltar.

Gibraltar, the thin strip next to the water is the airport runway, scanned postcard

Trailer Arrives and Training..

2004-12-25T20:32:00.000Z

Less than two days ago I bought a bicycle trailer over the phone, mail order.
Today it arrived complete with two free gifts, now thats what I call service.
Thank you to:
C H White & Son
51 High Street
Malmesbury
Wilts
C.H.White

Its a Wilderbeast
From Koolstop

After having read all the reviews and comments I could find on the net I chose this one, and I am very happy with it indeed.
Construction is solid and all the welding is good. It has a very good finish and it fits the bike (Giant - Boulder) perfectly. It comes complete with a fitted haul sack which looks showerproof, time will tell. One of the free gifts was a set of pannier racks which have fitted very well to the tongue frame, the other a compact high pressure pump.

Overall....very impressed with both the merchandise and the service, trial run tonight.

Test Complete
The bike feels quite different, pulling away is not too bad, but cornering.....? Hmmm
I will have to be nice and steady all the way round.
Planning is required to avoid small quick adjustments to the steering as the trailer makes the rear of the bike move a fraction of a second out of time with the front.
Worrying.
I dont think its the trailer design, Its just that I'm not used to towing a trailer.
Ran it with a 30lb load today and am happy to train with that for now, will be up to a full load in a week.

Ok
Sunny sunday afternoon and finally getting the hang of the trailer. It felt a little unstable on the first short runs, but once I got used to it, it was predictable enough. If I keep it straight and make no sudden moves, I can't even tell its there, till I get to a hill, Ha.
No longer worrying.

First decent run.
51 miles, in 3.5 hours at 27'c.
22 miles with 32lb + trailer.

Is a fair start, good enough for me.

Good Day
Did my first full run today.
Left at 09.00, back at 19.40.
Riding time 5h 49m, distance 80.73miles.
Split the ride and changed load weights, 23 miles with 44lb+ load on the trailer.
Level ground, 50% against a fair headwind.
Now I know I can do it if I need to.
Happy now.....
sleeeep.

Full Load
Well its the end of the week and I'm up to a full load now, strangely the bike feels more stable the more weight there is on the trailer.
The whole set-up is a complete pain to manouver while off the bike and parking is a delicate balancing act, but I will be spending far more time riding it than walking with it, and once I'm on the bike and moving I hardly even know its there.
83.07 miles,
5hrs and 51 mins riding time today,
36mls with a 60lb+ load on the trailer.
Had a few 40 to 50 mile rides in the week, with only 1 day off.
No worries.
Only had one problem so far, some maniacs in a vauxhall cavalier overtaking me on the left hand side, half on the grass verge and half on the road, bouncing and swerving all over. They came close enough for me to have touched the car. Couple of kids driving.

Got home to find a friend had fallen off her bike. Turned right and didnt notice the motorbike alongside her, no serious injuries, but not what I need to hear!! I hope you feel better soon Zarah.
Apparently whilst mountain-biking George Dubbya also had a spill today and managed to sustain cuts and grazes to his face despite the helmet and mouthguard.
Maybe not quite enough safety gear there eh George? Haha
He didnt let the secret service drive him home though, he finished the ride.
I'm not a big fan George, but,
Nice.

Route Guide..

2004-12-25T20:18:00.001Z

This page is a guide to the route I took on this trip.
Each days entry is linked to the day number below.
More photos are shown in the later posts here, photos relating to earlier entries will be added when I have the time....

Distances and times were measured using a Sigma trip odometer,
time riding = the amount of time the bike was physically moving.

Day 1 Friskney to Rutland Water.
Friskney, Sibsey, Frithville, Hubberts Bridge, A52, A17, A16, Spalding, Stamford, A606 Oakham, Rutland Water
Miles = 83.33 / time riding = 6h 39m
2

Day 2 Rutland Water to Southam.
Rutland Water,back roads no signs, A6003?
B664 to Market Harborough,Clipstone, Naseby, across A14 Coventry/Kettering, West Haddon, Daventry, A425 Southam, A423 south, Southam.
Miles = 68.5 / time cycling = 6h 27min

Day 3 Southam to Cross Hands Inn.
A423 Southam to Banbury, B4035, Chipping Norton, A44 junction with the A436,The Cross Hands Inn.
miles = 34.30 / riding time = 3h 29min
4

Day 4 Cross Hands Inn to Devises.
A429, Yanworth, Cirencester, Malmesbury, A429, Chippenham, A342 to Devises, camping 2 miles north of town on the A361.
miles = 69.34 / time riding = 5h 39m
1

Day 5 Devises to Wimbourne Minster.
Devises, A360, Salisbury plain, Stonehenge, A303, Martin, Damerham, Cranbourne, B3078 to Wimbourne Minster.Wilksworth Campsite, just north of Wimbourne Minster B3078.
59.71 miles, riding time 5 hours 16 mins
6

Day 6 Wimbourne to Weymouth.
Miles= 48 (ish) I forgot to check, riding time 3.5hours
2

Day 7 Weymouth to Guernsey to Dinan. Webcam showing St Peter Port, Guernsey
Weymouth to St Malo 9 hour boat trip, the main road out of St Malo is over the hydropower dam, just after that is junction with the D266, just after that, when the sharpish left hand bend starts to open out, turn left onto a disused railway track cum cycle path.
17 miles to St Samson/Dinan.
3

Into France........

Day 8 Dinan.
3

Day 9 Dinan to Trudeau, Foret de Paimpont.
South from Dinan D2 to St James, Evran(?) D2 to D68 (same road) to Becherel, St Pern (D220?) to D71 Landujan, past La Chez, past Montreuil, cross N12 to D61, Boisgervilly, Iffendic, St Peran (all D61) turn right to D40, Coganne, Chene Mellet, Trendeal, Trudeau, campsite in the Foret de Paimpont.
47.43 miles in 3 hours 58 mins riding time
2

Day 10 Trudeau to Nozay.
Trudeau to Tredeal to Plelan Le Grand, D38 Maxent, D65 Campel, cross D776 to D65 Maure L Bretagne, D65 Lieuron, D65 Pipnac, D59 La Guennais, cross D177 to D59 Balac, Besle, to D15 Bas Meaudac, D15 to Guemene Penfao, town centre to D775 to D124 Juzet, Conquereuil, Le Briel, Marsac Sur Don, D124 Nozay.
Miles 52.62 Time riding 4h 12m

Day 11 Nozay to Rablay sur Layon.
Bonnoeuvre, D57 Cande, D6 (Loire) Ingrades, Beaulieau, St Laurent D17 to St Lambert, Rablay sur Layon
Miles 73 time riding - 6h 11mins

Day 12 Rablay sur Layon to Bron.
St Mathuin sur Loire, Parnay, St Maur, Saumur, Breze, Saumoussay, campsite between Bron and Montrieul de Bellay.
miles 66.3

Day 13 Bron to Chatellerault.
Montreiul, N147 Loudun, Chatellerault.
56.1 miles 4h 40mins
1

Day 14 Chatellerault to Le Pont Chretier Chabenet.
D950 to Tournon St Martin, D725 near St Sauveur, Le Blanc , St Gaultier, Le Pont Chretien Chabenet. Followed the Creuse river most of the day.

Day 15 Le Pont Chretien Chabenet to Razes.
Route today - into St Martin, find the N2020 and follow it.
Only problem being, its called the N920 when you get there.
Its also called the D220, the D1 and the N20.
53.18 miles in 5h 20mins riding time

Day 16 Razes to St Yrieix la Perche.
D220 to Limoges, D20 South West of town to Aix sur Vienne, D20 to St Martin, D17 to Nexon, to D15, D704 to just north of St. Yrieix-la-Perche.
50.48 miles in 4 hours 48 mins.

Day 17 St Yrieix le Perche to Montignac (Lascaux)
D650, D67, Cherveuix Cubas D704 across the N89, D706 to Montignac "Rue de Juillet".
44.2 miles Riding time 4 hours 36 mins

Day 20 Siurac en Perigord to Soturac.
Siurac en Perigord D710 to Mazeyrolles D660 to D710 again to Fumel, site just out of town in Soturac near Condat.
36.91 miles 3h 1 mins riding time

Day 21 Soturac to Astaffort.
Fumel to Villeneuve sur Lot, N21 to Agen, N21 to Astaffort.

Day 22 Astaffort to Masseube.
N21 south to Lectoure, N21 to Auch, N21 to Tarbes, Missed the turn for D929, Lasseran, Auterive, Seissan, Masseube.
62.1 miles 4h 59 mins riding time.
1

Day 23 Masseube to Bagneres de Bigorre (Lourdes). 3 Webcams from a Pyrennean weather station
2 Webcams of the Grotto complex at Lourdes
Masseube to Bagneres de Bigorre D929, Lannamazan, cross the motorway to D938, Capvern, Molere, Mauvezin, Bagneres, camp at Pouzac.
46.01 miles 4 hours 23 mins riding time.

Day 24 Bagneres de Bigorre to Capvern.
D938 17 miles

Day 25 Capvern to Mane.
D938 to Barthe de Neste to Montrieau, D117 to Mane. Inc St Gaudens, Beauchalot to Montsaures on backroads D69. Garonne river
41.97 miles 3h 6mins riding time.

Day 26 Mane to Foix.
Mane to Foix, D117, easy! Through Castelnau Durban, Montgaillard, St Girons
48.61 miles 3h 50mins riding time.
3

Day 27 Foix to Torriels Plage (Mediterranean Coast).
D117 from Montgaillard just south of Foix to the N9 in Perpignan. Through Puivert, Quillon, St Paul de Fenouillet, Perpignan, N9 in Perpignan north to D83 east to D81 south to Torreils Plage
103.89 miles in 7h 59mins riding time.
3

Day28 Torriels Plage to Ceret. Webcam of the beach at Argeles showing the mountains towards Spain
D81, D617, D81, St Cyprien, D81 Argeles Sur mer, D618 St Geris, Le Boulou, Ceret, Reynes Pont, Reynes, Ceret.Camping on D115 outside Ceret.

First Camino Day Reynes to Elne. Start Camino in Elne, to Lezignan Corbiere.
Can Gillet to Ceret, le Boulou, Elne, St Cyprienne, Canet, St - Marie, St Laurent de la Salanque, Port Leucate, Caves, Sigean, Narbonne, camped at Lezignan-Corbieres.
97.15 miles 7h 44mins riding time.
7

Camino Day 2 Lezignan Corbieres to Fanjeaux.
N113 to Carcassonne, D119 to Montreal, D119 to Fanjeaux.

Camino Day 3 Fanjeaux to Audinac les Bains.
D119 to Les Pujols, airport, D12 to N120 south, St Jean de Verges, Foix, D117 to La Bastide de Serou, D117 to Castelnau Durban, D117 to St Girons, Audinac Les Bains
64.06 miles

Camino Day 4 Audinac les Bains to St Bertrand de Comminges.
St Lizier, Le Palais de Eueges, St Giron, D117 to Salies du Salat, Montsaunes, D69 and D69J to Beauchalot, N117 to St Gaudens, D8 to St Bertrand de Commimges.
42.11 miles 4h 12min riding time
3

Camino Day 5 St Bertrand de Comminges to Bagnere de Bigorre.
St Bertrands to N125 to Montrejeau to D938 St Laurent de Neste, road to La Barthe closed, detour through Aneres, Chapelle de Notre Dame de Roume, Cieutat, Bagneres, Pouzac
3

Camino Day 6 Bagneres to Lourdes to Busy.
Pouzac to D937 Montgaillard, Lourdes, D937 St Pe de Bigorre, L'Estelle Betharram,D35 Asson, Bruges D394 Arudy, D232 Buzy
49.26 miles in 4h 20min riding.
3

Camono Day 7 Busy to Osse en Aspe.
Oleron St Marie (Join the Via Tolosana) , Sarrance, Osse en Aspe
3

Camono Day 8 Osse en Aspe to Borce.
Lescun, Borce
Miles today = 18.76 in too many hours.
4

The Camino into Spain......

Camino Day 9 Borce France, Somport, to Canfranc Spain. (Finally across the Pyrennees)
3

Camino Day 10 Canfranc to Sigues.
18 miles (all downhill) to Jaca, N240 all the way to Sigues. N240 not an attractive road, but no worries.
3

Camino Day 11 Sigues to Mendigorria.
Esco, N240 almost all day today, lots of tiny villages just south east of Pamplona, Monreal, Torres, Campanas, Ucar, Santa Maria De Eunate, Puenta La Reina, Mendigorria.
47 miles today, set off 0900 arrived here 1800.
1

Route guide details are work in progress, to be completed asaic

Camino Days 12,13,14 Mendigorria-Estella-Logrono-Santo Domingo.
N111 to turn right NA134 to Logrono. From Logrono (motorway) A12 to N120 Najera, N120 to Santo Domingo
3

Camino Day 15 Santo Domingo to San Juan de Ortega.
Santo Domingo N120 Belorado, N120 turn off right (north) to Santovenia to San Juan de Ortega.
35.8 miles
2

Camino Day 16 San Juan de Ortega to Castro Jeriz.
San Juan to Barios de Colina, to N1 to Burgos. From Burgos N620 to N120 to left turn south to Yudego to Castrillo de Murcia to BU404 (good flat road) to Castro Jeriz
48.19 miles
5

Camino Day 17 Castro Jeriz to Carion Los Condes.
From Castro Jeriz, BU400/BU403 to Itero, P432 to Boadilla, to Fromista, Boadilla, P980 to Carion los Condes.
36 miles in 3hrs 36 mins
2

Camino Day 18 Carion los Condes to Mansilla las Mulas.
N120 most of the day today, to just south east of Leon, then turn northwest on the N601
61 miles
1

Camino Day 19 Mansilla Las Mulas to Astorga.
15 or so km to Leon, on to Astorga.
55 miles. Left at 0830, arrived 1600, 5h 11 min riding time.
5

Camino Day 20 Astorga to Ponferrada.
No main roads, nice!! Up into the hills - Montes de Leon , climb and climb, maybe 1500 feet (500m) small villages.
37.33 miles in 5h 16 riding time.
2

Camino Day 21 Ponferrada to Triacastela. Webcam showing the top of OCebriero
NV1 Trabadelo, Cebreiro, Lamas, Triacastela.
60.4 miles including Cebreiro
5

Camino Day 22 Triacastela to Palas de Rei.
2

Camino Day 23 Palas de Rei to Santiago de Compostella.
3

Camino Completed Santiago de Compostella. Webcams showing Santiago Cathedral in close view
4

Day 1 Santiago to Sanxenxo. Webcam showing the coast at Sanxenxo

Day 2 Sanxenxo, Spain to Caminha, Portugal. Webcams showing Pontevedra and Redondela

5

Day 3 Caminha to Vila do Conde.
3

Day 4 Vila do Conde through Porto to Esmoriz.
3

Day 5 Esmoriz to Mira.

Day 6 Mira to Figuera da Foz.

Day 7 Figuera da Foz to Outao (Setubal) 4 days diary.

Day 8 Setubal to Melides.

Day 9 Melides to Vilanova de Milfontes.

Day 10 Vila Nova de Milfontes to Aljezur.

Day 11 Aljezur to Lagos.

Day 12 Lagos to Olhau.

Day 13 Olhau Portugal, to Bellavista (Huelva) Spain.

To Be Continued....for further details of the route click the last link above, then see the "all blog entries" list on the right, this continues south through Spain, heading for Gibraltar, writing in progress.

First Day 02/06/04... Friskney near Boston to Wing (Rutland Water) 83.3 miles..

2004-12-25T20:08:00.000Z

02/06/04

I left Friskney at 08:00.
Somehow it didn't feel right to be going, it felt like I was leaving too much behind. As I rode away I was very glad to be finally setting off, but sad to be moving away from home here. There's a huge backstory to my leaving that I will not be writing here, suffice it to say that it was a bittersweet moment.
Todays route...Friskney, Sibsey, Frithville, Hubberts Bridge, A52, A17, A16, Spalding, Stamford, A606 Oakham, Rutland Water.
My intended campsite at Manton was closed. A good job - it was a building site and I'm much better off here at Wing.
I took a wrong turn at the end of the day due to dodgy directions, I didn't consult the map and so did a circuit of the lakes - ha, just what I needed at the end of the day.

Wing House/Manor campsite is a huge old victorian manor house at the SW corner of Rutland Water near the A6003 and A47 crossroads. It has lots of land and it's own fishing lake.... but no shops...Hell.
I was hoping to be able to buy food locally when I stopped for the night.
They sell eggs and have water points/showers etc but thats it, no villages close by.
This is a very nice campsite, with lots of room, in a Perfect setting. Looking out the door of the tent down the valley I can see no houses, pylons, or roads. Its all fields and trees.

I got the "60 mile munchies" earlier today so stopped at a truckstop burgerbar run by a small Scottish guy. I asked him for 3 of his finest and he gave me a look of shock.... 3? 3 burgers??
When I told him where I was going he fed me up on Irn Bru and gave me stories of huge exports to Russia because it's a good vodka mixer.

There are no internet facilities or cafes here, that means no talking to Zarah....not good.
Site £5
Miles = 83.33
time riding = 6h 39m
pushed it....twice
started at 08:00 , finished at 17:15
Couldnt have hoped for a better first day, all sun, backwind, and a good campsite.

Rutland Water to Southam 68.5 miles 03/06/04..

2004-12-25T20:07:00.000Z

03/06/04
Good evening yesterday, I got chatting to the couple in the next tent.
They arrived with two young kids on two tandems just after I got here yesterday. An amazing set up, Top Marks for organisation. Their whole family + tent + all the gear on two bikes.
I let them do most of the talking as I was too tired to do much myself, but was invited for a chat, so went. Could hardly think straight, let alone talk. The first day was a long day and I had a lot on my mind.
Woke up at 03.30 this morning, showered, kettle on, then thought "its a bit quiet". I remembered my bike computer had a clock, 04:00, too late to sleep again now.
Drifting fog in the valley and a red sunrise, nice.
Got riding at 06:00. Serious hills with no signposts, or rather, plenty of posts but no signs. It's like wartime around here. I just guessed and didn't take yesterdays route. Worked well, found the B664, a superb road to Market Harborough and walked the worst of the hills, Hmmmm, this won't work all the way across Europe.

Everything's damp now, I put the tent away wet after a heavy dew and fog.
I think I'll have to leave later in the mornings and let it all dry out a little.

Todays view out of the tent door......round bales covered in black plastic, years old and about 8 feet away. Large trees behind them, then a small lane.The campsite is off the A473 going south from Southam, about 3 miles (ish) almost at the top of a hill, on the left.
I saw the sign through the drizzle and went in... "I'm not supposed to take tents, I'm a CC member"
Oh No!!
Has been a long day (11.5 hrs), and I couldnt find anywhere for miles before this place. We got to talking for a while and, luckily, he's a good one. Maybe he didnt want to turn a camper on a bike away in the rain, lucky for me.
It's been a fair day today. A little rain about 15.30 to 16.30. Nothing too bad, no need for my poncho. It started again about 17.30, just in time for the campsite.
Tired now.
It's 19.15 and I'm "indoors", I really like the smell of wet tents.
Stopped in "Little Benton" to use the internet at the public library, txt to Zarah and told her, and was there for for the opening time at 12.00. I waited a while and noticed that the people walking past were all ignoring me. I was stood next to a 12' bike and trailer rig, fully kitted out, and no-one showed the slightest interest. Jeez, am I invisible??
I soon figured out it was this place all over. Nobody happy, no smiles, not even the kids. Went for a ride to find something to eat while the library got itself organised and found a nice cafe a little way off. Steak and chips in amazingly quick time, and they even opened a side door and let me sit next to it to keep an eye on the bike. Thank you ladies for the only smiles in town :))
Back to the library for 13.10 and waited, still no-one speaks or acknowledges, nothing till 14.00. Finally got into the library and found they were charging £1 for 20 mins (free library services in UK?) and they wouldn't let me download Yahoo messenger. Miserable. A part time librarian stood watching me with a look of mild distaste, apparently the place only opens 3 hours a day, I'm not surprised at the lack of demand. I sent a few emails and left.
Not happy, I lost 2 hours, and have not spoken to Z for 2 days now. I left the town in a really miserable frame of mind, not so much for the time lost or the pettiness, but because their manner was infectious, the place was infectious, I arrived happy and left seriously pissed off. Took me all afternoon to shake it off. Strange place, avoid it.

Late in the day I was worrying I would not find a campsite, I couldnt physically find any of them that were marked on the map actually on the ground. I have been lucky twice now, especially here, I almost missed it. I dont fancy a night out in a field around here, it's too built up and industrial and looks like bandit country.
Miles today = 68.5
time cycling = 6h 27min
nutters = 1.A sales rep overtaking oncoming traffic at about 75mph came far too close to me for comfort. I gave him the bird but he didn't stop.
Pushed = way too much, absolutely shattered, (you should see the handwriting in the note book hahaha)
Route today, Wing Manor, back roads no signs, A6003?..
B664 to Market Harborough. USE THIS ROAD.
West Haddon, Daventry, A425 Southam, A423 south, here.

I was stood on a footbridge between Clipstone and Naseby watching traffic on the A14 Coventry / Kettering pass below, and saw an ex works lorry, the blue one, 10.30 am..... I can't get away from them, but at least they are beneath me now!

The owner here seems to be worried about thunderstorms and my tent being under a tree, I hope he's wrong.
Will have a short day tomorrow, perhaps finish at Bourton on the Water.

Barcelona cathedral, send postcard here, daughter, Mr T P Seden, Withytree farm,
No showers, very basic, but I like it.
£5 a night.

Southam to Cross Hands Inn 04/06/04. 34.3 miles..

2004-12-25T20:06:00.000Z

04/06/04
07.30 and I'm writing my diary while waiting for the tent to dry out, I dont want to pack it wet twice running. The bats here had a good night last night, the tent is covered with moths wings this morning.
I'm using a new type of charger for my mobile phone, it can charge up using batteries. I bought some from a filling station yesterday, but my phone was dead this morning. Need to buy Duracell.

Left at 0840, a good run for the first two hours, then, forgetting about the trailer and trying to ride up too steep a hill in too high a gear, I pulled a muscle in my right leg around the knee area.
Painful!!
I had to walk every now and then as it couldn't take much weight from the pedals. That seemed to calm it down a little, till I started riding again.
Keeping out of third gear now unless on the flat, middle 2nd is ok for now, and I can granny in 1-1 up hills I couldn't climb two days ago. A small success :)
I had an absolutely beautiful route today, the A423 Southam to Banbury is not too good, but Banbury is a nice town. I left it on the B4035....

USE THIS ROAD, It's magnificent.
Oxfordshire villages at their best, superb middle-England. Tiny old stone houses, rolling hills, the odd thatched house, 14th C pubs- beautiful.
Not too many shops, but they advertise at the side of the road if they are in the villages down the side roads.
??ford ferris (can't remember, its not on the map), turn left off the B4035, it's a good way through to Chipping Norton, mostly downhill :))
Friendly and positive people here, why can't all towns be like this?
I ran over my first snake today, an adder. It just "ran" out in front of me ... What could I do?
Left Chipping Norton on the A44, HILLS!
Mid afternoon I stopped at the top of one hill at a pub with a campsite in it's back yard. The junction with the A436,The Cross Hands Inn

I was the first camper to arrive here, 14:00. A clean site, but a touch expensive at £7 a night for just me and the bike. Old stone walls and heavy beams inside, it's a comfortable place with a nice Guinness. I got the corner seat in the bar, nobody else was in there, and sat looking along the bar and out of a picture window across the valley at the next hill, must be 20 miles, all in the sunshine. Later on the barman charged 2 people in a VW camper £9 for one night as against my 7, so I was a little annoyed at that. On the plus side the showers had no timer, so I took half an hour (and the same again in the morning) and got my money's worth. It was the first shower I had had for 2 days, and I needed it.....

A short day today, but I'll make it up with a big day tomorrow. Early start. I want to be leaving by 06:00 at the latest, I need to get past Chippenham. Hopefully I will reach Devises, then in 2 days from now I should see Stonehenge.
Easy going on Salisbury plain?

I need to check the mechanicals more frequently, I found the trailer draw bolts loose, LOOSE. The "locking" nuts were all the way undone! It's a good job the back-up nuts are nylockers.
Was mostly sunny today, I saw a 20 min shower, but got under an avenue of trees and walked for a while, spooky to be totally closed in, but nice to be dry.
First sunbathe today, 2 hours outside the tent resting my knee, ha, this is more like it.

miles today = 34.30
riding time = 3h 29min
Nutters = 1 ....me. No more riding with that weight up too steep a hill, get off and push!
pushed = a lot
Total mileage to date = 186.13

Cross Hands Inn to Devises 69.3 miles..

2004-12-25T20:03:00.000Z

05/06/04
Straight down the A429. The first 3 miles of the day were all downhill, 25 mph, a good start, but the A429 is a swine of a road. The builders didnt believe in contouring it, they went literally straight over every hill.
The worst was near Yanworth, it dived straight into a stream valley and then immediatley out up the other side, vertically.
The rig I have here must weigh around 120lbs minimum, even on wheels thats a hell of a weight to push up a hill, I had to stop twice and hold it on the brakes.
I need to trim the weight in the trailer.
I finally got out of the worst of the hills at around 10am, (left at 07.40) and found the going was a lot easier towards Cirencester, although the A429 road is a dual carraigeway there. Getting towards Malmesbury it's better still, all rolling wooded hills and fields.
I went to the shop that I got the trailer from in Malmesbury,
C.H.White and Son
This is a beautiful town.

photo borrowed from here

Old, well looked after, and very clean. The only thing I have against it is the Horrendous Hill that you find when turning right out of White's bike shop. It's very picturesque, with tiny stone houses and a narrow street and it's like riding your bike off the edge of a cliff.
A429 again today, It's been a main road day today, maybe thats why I'm so tired, (watching out for the lorries).
I noticed an old drove road alongside the main road, is this the old Fosse Way? It runs for miles. Two 5' dry stone walls about 20' apart, overgrown and full of trees now. Could be very interesting searching here with a metal detector....
Onto Chippenham......Good God what a hole. I got through as soon as I could. A complete dustbin of a place full of skint people with desperation clearly showing. Litter, graffitti, vandalism, urban decay.
I just guessed the roads as I didnt want to stop and look at the map. The town isn't signposted well, I just took the through traffic signs and got the hell out of there.
In complete contrast the A342 to Devises is lined with well kept thatch houses, all with expensive cars in their driveways, well kept fields, and an air of rustic indifference. Old road signs all green with algae and long grass at the side of the road.
Until you get to Bromham.
Turn a corner and "Olde Worlde" turns into "1960's council estate" in the blink of an eye.
Then the worst hill yet, an equal to Yarworth, just below Bowood Country Club, what a place.....now that is serious money.
The only hill in the area from my approach and the roadbuilders have done it again, straight up and over the thing.
I had 3 stops on this one. The roadsides are wooded and have high walls on both sides for the most part. The temperature was in the high 20's with no breeze, a suntrap. Then just as the sweating and cursing were reaching their peak, I came across a water trough set in a 10' high stone wall. A spring catcher - talk about relieved. A good splash down while holding the brakes and balancing the bike with one hand.
Above it there is an inscription carved into the lintel stone, I can't remember for the life of me what it says, but its something along the lines of
"drink here traveller, worth more than wealth,
drink here and have Gods good health"
A fitting comment below a country club like that one.
Made my Day.
The rest of the day was an easy run to Devises, and I'm camping 2 miles north of town on the A361
miles today= 69.34 total now 255.47
time riding = 5h 39m
Jakes christening today, it would have been nice to be there.
Missing Zarah.

There are lots of light aircraft passing over the campsite here, with one flying over every 30 minutes or so. Microlights etc, of all different types.
A father is trying to coach his kids to play football, "go on then", "dont keep possession", "go on then" haha, it's funny to watch.
2 hot air balloons are rising in the sunset and I'm camped about 30' from an electricity pylon.
Industrial Sunset.
£5 a night

Devises to Wimbourne Minster 06/06/04 59.71 miles..

2004-12-25T20:02:00.000Z

06/06/04

miles today = 59.71
total now = 315.18
I fitted the counter when I got the trailer, so this is a total of training too.

I'm camped at Wilksworth Campsite, just north of Wimbourne Minster on the B3078, it's superb.
Wilksworth Campsite
Its almost a country club, manicured, polished and set well back from the road. Packed with expensive caravans and cars....and I turn up, haha, 59.71 miles in 5 hours 16 mins on the hottest day yet, wearing a t-shirt that's 2 days old and in my last pair of clean socks....hmmmm... what will my reception be like??
Superb again.
I was made very welcome at the site office and booked in for 2 days. After the last few days this is paradise.There are laundry facilities, a shop, and a restaurant, ahhhh relax.
I set off this morning from Devises at 0830. An old couple turned up on the site in a car at 0600 on a Sunday morning, and then let loose a yapping toy poodle.....and let it run around barking while they set up their van....Popular People.
Through Devises, a ghost town at that time on Sunday, and out to the A360, a good road, but again the hills are getting me. I will have to lighten the load on this trailer.
Across Salisbury plain, with wide open rolling grassland in hot sunshine. I stopped on top of the highest hill and looked around and I could see for miles.

Lots of this

and this....

and this...

It's an army training ground.

I noticed a strange sound, water splashing, and realised that I was stood next to a spring. "But I'm on top of the highest hill I can see?" Am I that tired?
No, its real.
Strange.

Stonehenge,

right at the side of the road, with access through a pedestrian underpass.
£5.20 entry fee.
Unbelievable!!
Where does the money go? Certainly not to the upkeep of this site.
I walked in a circle around the stones amongst a myriad of nationalities.

The French were a surprise, I didnt recognise the language until someone said oui oui, ...and I will be there in 3 days.
Ah well, theres always sign language.

The stones are impressive and not as small as people have told me, and the actual site is huge, it extends far beyond just the standing stones. The landscape shows a lot. I looked around for 1/2 hour or so, then got back onto the A303, climbed up the hill to the dual carraigeway and looked back. Saw the site from above, the layout in the landscape was even more apparent from there.
Next, turned downhill and moved through to Martin, Damerham, Cranbourne, all on tiny roads with a strip of sky at the top of two 10' hedges ,B3078 to Wimbourne Minster.

Ronald Reagan died today.
Salisbury does not deserve a mention.

Day Off 07/06/04..

2004-12-25T20:00:00.000Z

Went into Wimborne today and posted some cards of Stonehenge to Zarah in Cambo and Ewa in Poland.
Got a haircut.
Replaced the heavy jeans with lightweight gear and dumped some of the equipment (boots, jeans etc). I can't bring myself to leave my jacket, I don't know what the weather will be like later, but next time I pack for myself.
No advice on what to carry from someone who isn't going to be hauling it!
A sleeping and eating day - that's about it for today.

Wimbourne to Weymouth..

2004-12-25T19:56:00.000Z

Left Wimbourne at 07.00 and arrived in Weymouth at around 10.35, then spent an hour and a half searching for a campsite.
Haven's Littlesea site was the only one with places available that I could find, it's at the far (arse) end of an industrial estate, avoid it!
I won't last long at their prices. it's Seriously Expensive here. £23.00 for 1 tent containing 1 person for 1 night (with no car).

Haven Littlesea

The site is not good, in fact, its the worst yet.
Full of unfriendly people all closed in behind their own little areas of windbreaks, scowling and possesive of a little patch of scruffy grass.
I went into the campsite shop. There were 3 girls working in there, all in their late teens, and all pregnant, it must be one hell of a nightclub here.
It was an uneventful ride to get here, until just before Weymouth. A V shaped old river valley leading to the sea was my first sight of the English channel. Two huge birds were circling in the sky over the valley, I was watching them through binoculars but wasn't sure what they were. Eagles? big enough and had the right colours and the splayed wing tip feathers.
Just around the corner, a mile or less, on the right hand side of the road is a sculpture carved into the side of a hill. A man on a horse overlooking Weymouth. It's chalk land here so it stands out a brilliant white against the green of the hill on a sunny day.

Very impresive.

Soon discovered that I don't like Weymouth. It has a good shingle beach on its eastern side and very smart, even excellent, archtecture,

but the town itself is just another plastic fantastic. The same as all the other seaside towns in England. Cheap junk on sale to people that don't care what they buy, and MASSES of litter everywhere. Junk town, it amazes me everytime I see this.
Why do these people come here?
What do they get from this?
Mothers screaming and swearing at kids who have heard it all before and don't give a damn. Arrogance in everyone, their approach and attitude, and the everpresent feeling that at any moment it could turn to violence. 2 lads were eying up my bike whilst I was in a phone box, I made eye contact and they moved on. The town obviously has an illustrious past, but what happened here to make it like this? I'll be sleeping in my boots, I don't want to lose anything here.

Bought the ferry tickets, I just need to check in at 06.15 tommorrow. An early night tonight, if I can.
The ferry looked good, a twin hulled monster. I was hoping that it was as fast as it looked.

I'm booked to leave at 07.30, and arrive in Guernsey at 09.15. Then 3 free hours , then to France, arriving at 16.00 (ish).
I feel at my most vulnerable here. People must know, by seeing the bike and trailer, that I am passing through on a trip and am just waiting for the ferry.
Miles 48 (ish) I forgot to check.
Time 3.5 hours Wimbourne to Weymouth.

Weymouth to Guernsey to Dinan 27 miles 09/06/04

2004-12-25T19:54:00.000Z

Up at 04.15 this morning. A quick strike of the camp, then onto the ferry for 06.00 - 15 mins early.
Weymouth to St Malo is a 9 hour trip stopping at Guernsey for a few hours.
It costs £35 one way, with daily sailings until September with Condor Ferries.
I was the first passenger onto the boat. It's spooky inside one of those ferries, all echoes and dripping wet!
Weymouth looks good from the sea with the curve of the buildings showing them at their best, I stood on the back deck and watched England vanish into the mist and diesel fumes with a strange feeling, a little unsure of what was to come, but very satisfied to be going!
This is a FAST boat and it's seriously windy standing on the deck. There were lots of kids all laughing and excited, and all trying to keep standing upright. Their games added well to my mood.

Guernsey

What a difference!
It's beautiful, smart, clean, has no litter, no shouting, no tat, no arcades and ice cream, and nobody rushing.

Live webcam here

I liked this place, from the first moment. The docking town is called St Peterport, it's calm, classy, quiet and relaxed.
An old guy asked about my trailer, and sat talking on the quayside about where I planned to go on my trip. Friendlier people here, a very nice place, I will come here again.
I rode around the town for a while. The hill behind the town is the type that gets steeper as you climb and I got that "I've started so I'll finish" feeling, it feels like it goes on for ever!!
I thought I might get a view of the harbour from above, but there was no vantage point, it was all private gardens with high walls.
The ride down again was fantastic, all zig zag swooping curves at 25/30 mph, pushed along by the weight of the trailer. A good circular route back to the harbour.
I need some sunglasses, to keep the bugs from my eyes, but in these boutiques they start at £107.00!! I'll put up with the insects.

Got back to the ferry for 11.45 (12.15 check in), and was waiting at the front of the queue when two ladies rode up on lightly loaded mountain bikes, going to St Malo. Got chatting, they were from Guernsey, going on holiday to France. We met up again at disembark and ended up riding out of town together. They showed me their campsite at St Samson, Dinan.
Just after hydropower bridge is junction with the D266, take it and when the sharpish left hand bend starts to open out, turn left onto a disused railway (cycle path). It takes you straight to St Sampson

campsite link here

Lower part of Dinan.

The girls are called Jan and Annie and their route is all straight and level riding, about 17 miles. A perfect introduction to France, thank you ladies!!
Got my tent up an found that the bloke on the next pitch, a caravanner, goes to Spring Harvest every year in Skegness, the town next to mine.
Small world, I can't get away from the place.

Jan and Annie bought a mobile home here, they come down from Geurnsey when they get the chance and this is the first time they have done it by bike, 17 miles on a bike, not so bad ladies, normally they use a taxi.

First arrival in St Malo was a little worrying, French first on the boat's tannoy and I don't speak more than a few words of the language. France looks good from the sea though, Large rocks/small islands offshore and low hills behind the shore, large beaches, nice buildings. .
Off the ferry and up through the town, it's just like riding in England. Plenty of room here, space to move about, lots of cyclists too, all nod and bonjour! I say Bonjour and they say "hello - English?" haha I must have a terrible accent.
So far so good. Very nice and helpful people, though its acutely embarassing that I don't speak their language as well as they speak mine.
I lost an hour today through the change to French time, it's getting on for 10pm (French) and it's still light. Someone is playing American music in one of the caravans, Slim Shady + D2 - My Band... people singing along.... rap with a French accent sounds a little stange.

Miles today incl. Guernsey 27 +
time arrived here 19.00 (F)
Site is La Hallerais
St Samson
DINAN
campsite link here

Dinan..

2004-12-25T19:53:00.000Z

Late up today, 08.30.
It looks like all the English have been put together here, people are coming back from the showers singing 'Singing in the rain' wearing just a pair of shorts and with wet towel over one shoulder.
Rain is pouring down, I may stay another day and avoid getting all the gear wet striking camp, will wait till midday see what the weather does.
OK, booked in for another night, it's still pouring down. I'm catching water from the rolled up door flap in a billy can, 1 litre in 2 hours. Wrote a letter to Zarah, tent bound!
The rain stopped about 13.30 so I went for a ride, a gentle introduction to a foreign country. Found a small village close to the site that's all cobbled streets. OLD stone houses everywhere, one built around an ancient tower. Found the road to Dinan, it took me down to the river where cafe's line one side of the street and boats the other. Rode through and up the hill to look back down from the bridge above. It must be 130' high and the town is right underneath it, was very nice looking down at a slow river, al fresco cafe's and lots of boats.

The houses didn't look right to me, all the angles and sizes were different , I'm used to the english regularity, but it all works together here.
Picturesque. Wooden dinghys and canal cruisers all lined up.
Back down into town and took a left turn up a tiny cobbled street, opposite the bridge and up an incredibly steep hill into a medieval wonderland.

Tiny street, ancient buildings,and granite paving worn smooth with the years.

HUGE timbers jutting out everywhere over lots of arty shops selling expensive gifts to tourists, one selling bronze figurines, foot high art deco women, superb.
This town covers a large area, well worth another visit.
Site = La Halleraise, St Sampson, Dinan. E23 for 2 nights.

Dinan to Trudeau (Foret de Paimpont).. 47.4 miles 11/06/04

2004-12-25T19:52:00.000Z

Friday 11/06/2004
Am losing track of the days and date.
First day riding on my own in France.
I couldn't leave early today, the site office at la Hallerais still had my driving licence and they don't open till 09.00.
She was late...
A huge irate Italian guy crammed into the driving seat of a tiny campervan was losing his cool with the wait. Looked ridiculous.
Said goodbye to my neighbour, he has the site address, Will maybe look it up. Has been all over the place with his motorhome. Good luck with your travels!
Route today -
South from Dinan D2 to St James, Evran(?) D2 to D68 (same road) to Becherel, St Pern (D220?) to D71 Landujan, past La Chez, past Montreuil, cross N12 to D61, Boisgervilly, Iffendic, St Peran (all D61) turn right to D40, Coganne, Chene Mellet, Trendeal, Trudeau, campsite in the Foret de Paimpont.
Got lost on the way to Landujan, I took a detour through some tiny villages, very peaceful, no rush, happy people.
Tackled my frist Bar-Tabac today "40 Galouises sil vous plait monsieur". It took me 3 attempts before he understood what I was saying, but we got there eventually.
All the people in there were watching me fumbling their language and laughed at my loud "MERCI MONSIEUR" when he finally understood. They weren't taking the piss, just amused. It was pleasant, a good vibe.
The guy in the "newsagents" in Landujan was a different matter, I asked him for 2 9volt batteries and showed him an example. He understood and took my money, then dumped the change on the counter and turned away with his nose in the air. The French can say a lot with body language and this guy was a perfect example.
My attempts in the supermarket were OK, she asked me for my membership/discount/points card (I think) at the till, but all she got was a short silence and a "pardon madame"
"ahh English?"
"Oui"
"Dix euro quattre vingt dix" points to the readout
"Ahh D'accord, merci"
No reply from her, no eye contact, no smile, no goodbye, but I got my dinner.

The campsite here is a well kept field with a few small young trees dotted around and a small toilet/shower block. A French couple in a tent and an English couple in a caravan were my only neighours. Camp is at Trudeau, costs E5.90 a night, and is a municipal site.

Had a short "remote date" with Zara tonight. I went to the lake in the forest next to Paimpont town, whilst she looked at photos of it on the internet, text messaging to each other, was nice. She looked at photos and I described how it was. Small birds skimming the water, kids laughing, dogs barking in the distance and the smell of someone BBQing somewhere, but a fisherman in a boat was the only person I could see. I was sat on the East side watching the sun go down, Zarah had pics of the sunset on the net. A peaceful end to the day.
Todays distance 47.43 miles in 3 hours 58 mins (riding time) no pushing (stood up twice) easy riding in rolling hills. Sheltering under trees on dry patches on the road in the showers. Hiding in someones old barn with tumbledown walls and holes in the roof when it got really bad, eating my saucisson next to 3 ancient horsedrawn carts, steel banded wheels, woodworm and all.

Happy.
French chocolate a major discovery, it's actually chocolate, not that brown grease you get in England.

Trudeau to Nozay, 52.6 miles 12/06/04 and 13/06/04

2004-12-25T19:51:00.000Z

Saturday ?
D65 to Lieuron, I'm sat in a public park writing this. No litter, immaculate picnic benches, eating smoked sausages (they keep well) and watching a heron fishing in a small lake, nobody else here. Another perfect riding day, the churches en route today are amazing! Rough cut dark stone with a very pale cement/mortar, very old again. Why don't English towns have this history?? At Mauve De Bretagne the church is huge, with a mixture of styles, round, square, towers, spire, the lot, all rolled into one.
The D65 as a superb road to ride, not too busy, good surface, small hills (endless low gradients)
Done the shopping today, for the weekend I think. I needed to stock up, its difficult to carry 2 days food but they don't open Sundays here.
Is 11.00 now, left at 08.00. 15'C with passing clouds, trailer overloaded with food.
People nodding and smiling, older people taking more notice, the French nod is upwards, they push out the chin rather than nod the head.
Guy in the campsite this morning, arrived late last night, was French but spoke good English. Wants to do the trip I am doing for himself, he had just bought a recumbant bike and this was his first try at riding it, round and round the field. As I was leaving he was coming along the road towards me with a huge smile! "AU REVOUIR MR" A good start to the day.
Ok, Am 11 km out of Guemene Penfau now and everything has changed in the last hour, the grass isn't green anymore, oak trees arn't doing so well, the type of pine tree has changed, smaller and not so regular. All gorse bushes and plants I don't recognise. This is the first time the landscape makes me feel like I'm not riding in England. I've still got the crickets singing though, constant companions. Am writing this on a roundabout picnic area 2 km before Besle, D59 and D55 crossroads. Big sign says LANGON, Not sure if thats commercial or geographical though.
Well, now its an hour later, and I could be back in England again, it's all changed back!
Route = Trudeau to Tredeal to Plelan Le Grand, D38 Maxent, D65 Campel, cross D776 to D65 Maure L Bretagne (supermarket and amazing church) D65 Lieuron, D65 Pipnac, D59 La Guennais, cross D177 to D59 Balac, Besle, to D15 Bas Meaudac, D15 to Guemene Penfao, town centre to D775 to D124 Juzet, Conquereuil, Le Briel, Marsac Sur Don, D124 Nozay.
Can hear the motorway from the campsite.
Miles today 52.62
Time riding 4H 12mins
Easy going at the start but the hills get larger as you get towards Nozay, long up long down.
Is a municiple site here, some kids are shouting "Ahh, un campeur - regard le voleur monsieur"
I think that means watch out for the thieves!!
Angriest guy yet has just turned up here in a campervan, started shouting at people as he was tying his Doberman to the wing mirror - arse!!
Have noticed a lot more wildlife in France, insects, birds, small animals, everywhere, this place is spoiling me.
The style of the houses is starting to change a little, though all the newer ones are the same. Slate roof, thick walls, small windows, shutters or roller shutters, all of the houses here have shutters. There must be tough planning department, even extensions to old buildings are the same as new houses. ALL the same style and colour, slate roof and sand yellow painted walls. That said, these are vastly better looking than new English houses of the same size.
Trying to keep 2-3 days in front with the route plannning, the AA MaxiScale - France is perfect, showing even the smallest roads clearly.
Will stay a while here, saw an internet place in town, should be open on Monday, finally may get to YM with Zarah.
Can't get over how bad my feet smell! showering twice a day and I'm starting to stink!

Sunday 13/06/2004
A day waiting for the town hall to open, hope to get onto the internet and update the diary, talk to Zarah!!
A late arrival last night at about 3/4am pitched right on top of my spot. With a whole field to choose from he is camping 5'away, and didn't emerge till 7pm.
The Sanitaire is communal here, all share 1 big room, I was surprised when ladies started walking through whilst I was taking a leak, haha, unexpected.
Everyone tries to speak french to each other on these sites, but hardly anyone is actually french, can be amusing to find that your neighbour is English after stumbling along in french.
It's easy to spot the English drivers though, their number plates stand out a mile, they're a good source of travel info...places to go see.
French public phone boxes take cards not cash, looks like a credit card, chip and all. A good idea if you can find somewhere to buy them! 120 units for around E20 made 3 calls and got 80 units left, not too bad.
Galouises blondes my new preferred brand of cigarette, will have to see if they sell outside France.
Lots of radio stations playing english and american music here, Rolling Stones now (stack me up, you make a grown man cry?) It's very nice to hear.
Hot sunshine all day. Everything done and ready to move on, route planned for 5 days, SE from here. Eaten all the food and got through Sunday without starving, half a small loaf, smoked pork sausage, and a pack of sultanas. Hardly a balanced diet but will put it right tomorrow.
Is now about 8.30pm and is still hot sunshine, people stay up later here and spend more time outdoors, is taking some getting used to but I like it!
Thought there had been a festival in town last night and I had slept and missed it! Went through this morning and there was confetti everywhere, looks like a Big Party but apparently this is a normal Saturday night. Compare early morning here to early morning UK, we have broken glass, vandalism, and blood on the pavements on Sunday mornings.
T mobile are being arses about topping up my phone, they won't let me spend more than £30 a month. Thanks to home for sorting out alternatives! Will see to T mobile later.
Internet tomorrow!!!

Nozay to Rablay Sur Layon, 73 miles 14/06/04

2004-12-25T19:50:00.000Z

14/06/2004
OK. No internet. Not happy. Only planned half a day ride today so will extend to a full day.
Saw the first of the vineyards today. Started with a few small fields, but they soon got to be huge!
Stopped in Bonnoeuvre at the village shop and was drinking whilst parked next to the church, 3 women walked over and invited me to their house. I only stopped to buy a drink, but they insisited. Only one spoke English, very limited but better than my French, lovely people, I can't see that happening to a scruffy, sweating bike tramp in England! Small house tucked away down an unsurfaced road near the church, nice hospitality!
D57 was closed from Cande, "Route Baree" is beginning to be the bane of my life. Ha. Took the D6 instead, a good road, smooth as silk most of the way. Crossed the Loire at Ingrades, a strange bridge, looked as if it was built of checkerplate steel with a thin layer of tarmac spread over it. Loire is a BIG river, running low now though, half of it is sand making a good beach, sandbanks everywhere. Fishermen in small wooden boats dotted about.
Turned left immediately after the bridge, rode along the levee for a few km, windy up there on that bank.
All along the route today everyone seems to be cutting hay, the smell is everywhere, huge clouds of pollen drifting on the wind, clouds of seeds too, can see the wind from a distance by watching the pollen.
Tiredness struck again today. At a roundabout I took the road for Beaupreau instead of Beaulieau, left me with hills to deal with for miles, not good!!
D17 from St Laurent to St Lambert all rollercoaster hills, get to the top of one and can see the top of the next 1/2 mile away, than another, another. AARGGHH!! trailer too heavy, weather too hot!
Small lizards 3-4 inches long appearing all over now, running around.
Rosebushes planted at the ends of the rows the vineyards, all different types, one to each row.
In England I stopped on a bridge and was pleased to see a couple of fish in the water....here there are hundreds, they swim in small shoals!
Todays miles = 73
time riding - 6 H 11 mins
TOO LONG in these hills. will calm it down tomorrow.
Guy that runs the campsite here at Rablay sur Layon is a climber! Bruno. Spent 3 years in Chamonix, up and down Mont Blanc, I'm envious now.
This place is called called 'Moutons', its a working vineyard that runs a small gite and camping is available in the gardens. Amazing view from the tent, fresh out of the shower and I'm sat on an old stone lintel under a fig tree, eating bread, cheese and apples, a bottle of local beer, and I'm watching the sunset over the valley below. Peaceful here, the best place yet, I feel completely secure, only me camping on this farm. What a difference from the municiple at Nozay. This campsite just feels RIGHT. No traffic, no music, no shouting, just the crickets (as always) and the birds, I don't recognise the birdsong, piercing clear notes, and a lot more of it than at home.
E5.60 per night
Bruno has shown me a shortcut, the route is along a river and not on the map, takes me out of the hills on a flat route....Thank you!!

Heat and exertion getting to me again today, stopped on a hill to eat what I had left and drink something. The fatigue just hits me suddenly here, I run out of steam in a matter of minutes.
More water required for full days riding, 1.5 litres is just not enough as its getting hotter.
Smarter clothes required, I look and feel a scruff, a scarecrow! looking like this makes me less of a target but I feel completely out a place here, everyone looks good, completely nonchalent, confident, relaxed, a big change from home.
Psychological attitude a huge importance, let yourself get down and this life is NOT GOOD, need to keep an eye on tiredness, dehydration and regular eating. All can and are affecting me more than I realised they would. Drink lots, eat well, rest, and all will be OK!

Editors Note.

2004-12-25T19:49:00.000Z

Not finding many places to get online in France, and some of the ones I can find are not ideal places to leave the bike and trailer for any length of time. Best chances are at the post offices "La Poste", first purchase a smart card at the post office, a credit card with a chip attached, then top it up as you need.... costs E7 to buy the card which includes 1 hours use, then E4 for each subsequent hour.
Most of this blog has been typed in England from notes I have posted home.... Many Many thanks to all involved

Rablay Sur Layon to Bron, 66.3 miles

2004-12-25T19:48:00.000Z

More scrambled than usual today, I didn't write anything last night, am writing this on the 16th June.
Went back to the Loire, I like this river!
Arrived at St Mathuin sur Loire at about 11am. Text message to Zarah, nice. Credit on the phone, thank you home!
Followed the river through to Parnay.
If anyone is reading this you MUST DO THIS RIDE! ...even if you drive all the way to St Mathuin and drive home after Parnay.
DO IT!
A flat and level route follows the river for 95% of the way.
Absolutely Beautiful.
A French cyclist rode alongside me most of the way, older guy, in his 60's, silver teeth. Just about managed to communicate. Ha! Offering advice about setting up my bike, crossing the Pyrenees, taking the piss pleasantly.
"You are crossing the Pyrenees on THAT!"
"Ha Ha"
"Will take you 4 hours just to climb one col"
This guy has picked a marvelous place to ride, was going back as I stopped to turn south from the river. I stopped at a bar-tabac in St Maur for a beer, E2.60 for 1/2 a lager...... my first and last here! no more!

Got lost in Saumur, crossed the river (again) just so I could tell exactly where I was on the map. Very busy here, tiny roads, new traffic in an old town, they don't seem to have many by-passes here, and the streets are so narrow that complicated 1 way systems are the norm.
Cafes full of poseurs, all dressed up and sat watching each other, they show an interest in me and the bike/trailer, and are enthusiastic towards me, but are not happy about me sitting with them. Maybe because I'm scruffy and sweaty, but maybe because my tan is better than theirs!
Lost again on the back roads beyween Breze and Saumoussay, no sign posts here, I found a level crossing near a crossroads and worked it out from the roadmap, confusing when you're knackered and far too hot.
Campsite is HUGE, has a small pool but not flashy at all, just breeze blocks and timber walls around it, but an OASIS for me. The owner here has a broad Yorkshire accent, heard him pretending to be French to 2 South Africans, highly amusing, kept lapsing into Huddersfield.
Nice to hear it though.
He's OK, good for a chat, gave him no airs and graces (unlike most of the english here), one pompous tosser saw me with my phone and declared to all and sundry in a loud and plummy voice "A telephone?? He's no more than 2 days from the train!" That almost got him a 9v battery wedged in his nose, hell I'm tired.
Was packed, ready and waiting to leave for the bakers delivery at 08.00, le patron couldn't believe it. "You're going to ride all day on a croissant"??
Site between Bron and Montrieul de Bellay.
E7.00 Croissant E1.00

Bron to Chatellerault, 56.1 miles 16/06/04

2004-11-27T13:15:00.000Z

16/06/2004
Leave at 08.15 am down to Montreiul - A fairytale setting on the bridge. A wide slow river, with islands of trees and fishermen standing on the weirs, overlooked by the church, Chateau,(and castle?) black river, green trees, pale stone buildings, chocolate box image.
Flat and level riding for the first 20/30 miles along good roads, good riding. Main roads here not as busy as England, and the drivers a lot more considerate. They all slow down and move well over, these are good drivers, again, not like home. Bigger roads, better engineering, easier riding.
Roadside mmemorial on road to Loudun. N147. Polished stone with an RAF roundel at the top.
Text:
Saint leger de Montbrillas site de la resistance.
Reseau CND
Terrain Homologue: "Roi De Coeur" nuit 26/27 Mars 1942
un avion "LYSANDER" pilote par GUY LOCKHART
Debarque de Londres
"Gilbert Renault" alias "Remy" sont repatis
"Francois Faure" alias "Paco"
"Christian Pineau" alias "Garnier"
en mission pour la liberation de la France.

Would this have survived in perfect condition in a layby in England? On a long empty road in the middle of wheatfields in the middle of nowhere?
Into Loudun. Old city walls run for ever... and my road out? "Route Barree"!!!!! again!
When the French have roadworks in town they do it on a large scale, tiny street, JCB, teleporter, crane, lorries, piles of hardcore all crammed in. Squeezed past this one on half a footpath, just under the arm of a digger that was still working. I asked a guy with a shovel and he just nodded me through, the health and safety police would have had me shot for that in england.
All small villages next, no shops, no supermarkets, do these people live on fresh air?
Stopped to rest in a quiet village centre, sat an a wall. Just lit a cigarette , silent, peaceful, bliss. Then a bus appeared, and dumped 30+ chattering shouting schoolkids right on my lap, the bus door opened right onto the bike. Knackered but moved on.....
Site just North of Chatellerault, classy-expensive but they have washing machines!!
E23.00 1 night
56.11 miles 4 hours 40 mins. Stopped at 13.31, too hot, then fell asleep at the side of a marble pool.

Chatellerault to Le Pont Chretien Chabenet

2004-10-28T21:15:00.000+01:00

French cyclists - hmmm
If they are riding something expensive, are wearing all the flash gear, and are under 40, they are snobbery defined!
Speak ... or even acknowledge you? forget it! not even a nod much less a "bonjour". Old ladies on bikes with baskets of bread - true.
Old guys riding with their knees sticking out and a cigarette on - true.
Stripy T shirts - true.
Ancient bikes EVERYWHERE - true.
Onions and berets - false (so far)

Tiny castle poking out of some trees on the D950 out of Tournon St Martin, I should get a camera.
Looking over a wheat field, at the greenest of trees, under a cloudless sky with this little castle in the middle of it all.
Superb.

Another "route barree" D725 puts me onto the backroads again. Lost again, this time in St Sauveur, found myself riding down the steepest of hills - on a road 5 feet wide inbetween ancient buildings and aiming straight at the church in the village centre....terrifying, road surface terrible, all the weight on the brakes for too long! Scary moments.
Did my first motorway driving this morning! :D
Crossing the river in Chatellerault was the fastest way out of town, no problems, only for 1/2 mile. Not much choice about it!

Followed the Creuse river for the day Le Blanc , St Gaultier, terrible road! This one is busy. Bad surface for the bike, the chippings used to surface the tarmac are huge and have cost me a gear, slowing me down a lot. Stopped at the campsite at Le Pont Chretien Chabenet, 2 nights. Is a small river now which runs along the edge of the site. There's a german guy fishing in the sunshine.
Municiple E10 = 2 nights..

Le Pont Chretien Cabanet to Razes, 53.1 miles 19/06/04

2004-10-28T21:13:00.000+01:00

19/06/2004 (Saturday ?)
Got up to rain showers today. A lot cooler, left at 08.00 took the N2020 out of St. Martin, this road is amazing.
A new motorway has been built next to it, I took a chance that the heavier traffic would use the motorway giving me a 'main road day' but without lorries etc.
Totally wrong!!
No traffic uses this road at all.
This is the worlds biggest cycle path.
A main road, with a perfect surface, running for miles south into Limoges. I saw one lorry all day, An small ancient petrol tanker.
From St.Martin to Dognon, perhaps 40 cars. A Ghost Road!! The towns along it are ghost towns too. Faded signs, closed shops, abandoned petrol stations, tumbledown buildings. A few houses mixed in along the way that are well looked after, obviously not dependant on trade from the passing traffic.
I began on this road in high spirits, what a find!
Due south, perfect surface, and all mine!
But as the day progressed the desolation here began to affect me. Hundreds of empty houses, overgrown and neglected. Now and again a perfect garden, painted gates and shutters open, but always surrounded by dereliction. Several scrapyards with barking dogs. The few people that I see are just staring blankly at me, puts me on edge, a little nervous.
All the while the main A20 was a continuous rumble in the background, sometimes only 30 yards away and close enough to read the road signs. LIMOGES 80km, LIMOGES 72km, etc. Things got graduallly worse until the junction with the N145. Only the quality of the road surface and the quietness of the traffic persuaded me to stay with it. After the N145, things got better and better until I was riding on the same quiet road through hills and fields, completely alone. Marvelous! Forests and meadows, wildlife and farms. South of Bessines sur Gartemps this is a beautiful road. Have started to climb into some large hills now, forests all round, the climbs seem to go on forever. A lot cooler today - maybe below 20c am thankful for that. Slower going in the hills though.

53.18 miles in 5 hours 20 mins riding time. Lots of pushing today!
Set a new speed record, 31 mph, actually broke the roads speed limit (50km/ph) Good job I was on my own, Ha!
Found a site 4km south of Razes opposite the turn for Foray, is signposted for miles. Huge pine trees, roots everywhere poking through the moss, on a hillside slope. A very welcome bar, with the worlds slowest barmaid, took 7 attempts to add up 1/2 a lager and a nights camping, maybe it had been a long day!
The whole place looks a little spooky, really heavy duty log cabin, logs 2 or more feet thick, a small, scruffy, but very welcoming bar (your elbows stick when you lean on it! haha) Huge TV showing MTV in the corner, roof about 7' high, (just enough), and a few tables just as sticky as the bar and the carpets.
I like this place, strange, but I do. Could be a set straight from "Buffy the Vampire Slayer". The bamboo shoots sticking up through the floor of the tent are a bit much though, I'm praying the beer and the music festival tonight help me to ignore them. Should be an interesting night, provided its not the same barmaid.
Route today - into St Martin, find the N2020 and follow it!
Only problem being, its called the N920 when you get there.
Its also called the D220, the D1 the N20, oh, and just to confuse the issue further, most of the road number signs have black gaffer tape masking them, maybe someone wants to keep this road quiet!

Razes to St Yrieix La Perche 50.48 miles

2004-10-28T21:00:00.000+01:00

Well,
The "music festival" I was told about was a wash out.
French rock cd's, bloody awful, had 1/2 a random lager and called it a night.
They kept up the racket till about 4am though. A lot of pissed off campers this morning!
Good job the guy with the musical car horn left just before everyone got up...
I think the Germans here were ready for a lynching.
10.00 start today.
The D220 threw yet another surprise at me, almost all downhill to Limoges,
THANK YOU!!
More beautiful countryside with no effort from me at all. Found out where the heavy duty log cabins are coming from, about a mile down the road from the site is a company called 'AALAND'. Could see them in various stages of construction, amazing the size of these things!!
Took the signs for the airport from the north of Limoges, dropped me straight onto the D20.
South West of town to Aix sur Vienne, stopped for a smoke and was approached by a scruffy guy with a pit bull. On edge....
Surprising - perfect English and a half hour talk about football, apparently Germany drew 0-0 last week, he was still shocked. Ha.
D20 to St Martin, D17 to Nexon, a beautiful town, all open and wide clean spaces, not the usual narrow streets and parked cars.
Nexon - D15 - D704 to just north of St. Yrieix-la-Perche. A municiple site but the best one yet.
A 30 acre lake, a favourite with local picnickers and fishermen.
A large stone rail bridge on the west side of the lake reflecting in the water finishes it off perfectly. Tomorrow to Lascaux, hopefully, if my stomach will stay quiet long enough.
Glad I only had 1/2 last night, I wonder how long since they cleaned the glasses properly? Bad stomach and can only find squat toilets, a baptism of fire haha.
50.48 miles in 4 hours 48 mins.
20km mainly down hill, then back to the rollercoaster rolling countryside. 22c max all day. Sunshine + clouds.

St Yrieix La Perche to Montignac, 44.2 miles 21/06/04

2004-10-28T20:57:00.000+01:00

21/06/2004
Another amazing day. Woke to see the lake glass smooth and steaming in the dawn. Packed and away for 08:30, killer hills here, they go on forever! 5-6 km of all uphill, but worth it when you get to the top, can see for miles. All trees and farmland, then 5-6 km of gentle slope downwards, no brakes, no pedals, just glide along. Perfect at 18 mph. Then do it all again, sweating and swearing for an hour or so, then a long slide into the next valley.
Approaching Cherveuix Cubas moving south absolutly awesome!! (D704) South again across the N89 is a surreal landscape, miniature mountains seperated by tiny valleys 200 -300 feet across, the valleys have fields - ha micro! and the hills are wooded. Like "The Shire" in LOTR, with tiny houses glued to the hills!!
Onto the D706 to Montignac "Rue de Juillet", a tiny road takes all the traffic, Stopped to phone home, nice surprise.
All level ground now, following the river. Found the caves (Lascaux = "Lasscow") busy! found the booking office - busier!! queueing down the street.
Campsite is www.bleufond.com (place no 5) full almost, all nationalities again, same as Stonehenge. Group of English lads here, bike tour, graduate students, never even heard of the caves! So much for university education. Ha!
Early rise tomorrow, top of the queue for a ticket.
Got to go to "La Roque de St. Christophe" ... it looks superb in the brochures. A city (sic) carved into a soft band of limestone halfway up a cliff at around 100 feet, overlooking the river. 1km long! (climbable...... :D ) I think they would lock me up for that here.
44.20 miles recorded.
(I forgot to re-attach the counter after a supermarket visit in St Yrieix so + 4 miles)
Riding time 4 hours 36 mins was cursing on the hills, but one of the best days yet.
P.S. take the road through/above/past the Lascaux caves to the top, take the small steep turn right. Don't pay for the "neanderthal man" exhibit, is questionable! but look left at the view just before the tiny museum.
You can see why people have lived here for so long (70,000 years).
100% perfect geographical positioning, in a surreal landscape.
Route = St. Yrieix to D650 ("Shire") D67, Montignac. Turn left after end of Rue de Juillet, over bridge, immediate right turn, follow the riverbank to the site. Will come here again, dreamscape.

Lascuax caves

2004-10-28T20:55:00.000+01:00

Posted my diary notes from 21 to 24 June at Soturac post office and they didnt make it to England. Am more than a little annoyed as these notes included my visit to the caves at Lascaux. The caves were the reason I took this local route as they contain prehistoric paintings that are rated amongst the best in the world. I will try to update later from memory.

Ok, It's the 13th of June 2006 and I'm updating this with photos I have found on the internet.

A good website to use as a guide to visit Lascaux is here, (it's in French)

Plan of the caves.

This is an amazing place, the following photos may take some time to download, but they are well worth the wait.

Siurac en Perigord to Soturac, 36.9 miles 24/06/04

2004-10-28T20:54:00.000+01:00

24/06/04
Siurac en Perigord - D710 to Mazeyrolles D660 to D710 again to Fumel, site just out of town in Soturac near Condat.
Lots of industry today.
3 timber yards, 1 sawmill, 2 or 3 large quarries, lots of pollution, roads varying between superb and bloody awful!
Only 3 hr. 01 mins riding time to Fumel 36.91 miles today.
Another hot day, feeling better for it! 1,275 miles showing on the clock now. Did 251 miles training in Lincolnshire so am over the thousand for this trip :):).
One hill, slight gratdient but it went on for miles and miles, didn't stop! (small victory) Nice site, very quiet, organic farmers in their 80's had the campsite 20+ years. Come here again on the way back? Decided on change of route today, going south, then across the Pyrennean foothills to the Med! Short diary, early start tomorrow - sleeeep.
E4.40

Soturac to Astaffort

2004-10-28T20:52:00.000+01:00

Late up again today?
06.50 and somebody drove a horsebox past my tent, parked it, and left the engine running, marvellous! thanks!
Slow pack up, breakfast, shower, leaving for 10.00. Down the road past Fumel, past that bloody awful municiple site I decided against yesterday.
Pulled in there, well off the main road, and saw dereliction everywhere, crap, the whole site! Just along the way were two huge tower blocks with the first few floors bricked up, graffitti again, litter again, washing hanging from ALL the upper floor windows, Ha. I can't really judge as this is not my country, but in England
.............this would have been herion heaven, smackhead city........
And right in the middle of all this??
At the bottom of the site, behind an old shed (reception) was a massive new shiny black motorhome. One of those that have sliding compartments that move outwards from the vehicle body, must have cost an absolute fortune, it had English number plates, and sat in a chair, in the middle of all this shite is a bloke sunbathing, English, unbelievable.
I left him to it, and found a gem of a site less than 2 miles away.
He was either the local drug dealer or a footballer on a hideaway holiday! Ha Ha
Fumel is an industrial town, all factories and heavy traffic, most of the people here look Arabic, completely different from anywhere else I have been.
Fumel to Villeneuve sur Lot, level road, busy but OK, easy ring road around the south east of Villeneuve, N21 to Agen, another of those hills that last for miles, on and on and on, did it in one again (getting good now!)
Came to the top expecting a long easy, and not a chance, a plateau, slight ups and downs almost to Agen, then a Massive Hill, dropped like a stone right into the centre of a large town.
Immediatly lost I just kept going straight forwards! Found the station, steet beggars everywhere, in groups at times, smart young ladies dressed to kill, shops selling everything, cobbled streets, tiny 1 way roads, skinny kids on mopeds buzzing about, shifty looking smokers in doorways just watching the world go past.
Bright sunshine, traffic fumes, can't turn left, too much traffic, suits with briefcases, lots of staring, vulnerable. Found a sign for the airport, always a good one to find. Station and town bridge are good spots, can look on the map and know exactly where you are, but the airport is always on the outskirts of town away from the crowds and the traffic lights.
N21 to Astaffort, site is small, municiple, not the best but not the worst either, next to another coffee coloured river (Yes, I like camping next to rivers.)
Big drawback is the main N21 100 yards from my tent, careful pitching and its blocked from view by a weeping willow, but I can still hear it.
Speaking of traffic, was stood on the bridge over the river Garonne in Agen, HUGE RIVER having a smoke and watching the water when the entire bridge began to move, it trembled and swayed, up and down and side to side. Earthquake? no, lorry crossing. Jesus! that was scary. Not tiny movements, the thing was alive, like being on a boat!
OK.
Have just been to the most unsanitary sanitaire yet, not keen on using the toilet never mind the showers, will have to be a real early one tomorrow, quick dash!
Got bitten on my left foot the other night, sat and looked at the Dordogne until it was dark, felt a small itch, not a problem. 24 hours later the itching was the devils own, had to bandage my foot to get some sleep, now 24 hours later again, the bite was on the instep, the swelling has reached my little toe, and it feels like someone is stroking my foot with a red hot feather, not nice, not good! Bandage again tonight and see how it looks in the morning.
Its a Friday, its 20.37 and the music has started already, hotter than hell here and they're having a party, nice, will take a wander later. The singing sounds Spanish, so does the guitar.
Atmospheric.
Posted 2 letters today, 1 home 1 to Zarah, don't forget Ewa next time.
Campsite at Astaffort E4.40

note from typist! - I have now typed this article 3 times as the internet dropped each time I finished and went to 'Publish Post'. Fingers crossed.xxxxx here goes!
note from editor to typist.........sorry!

Astaffort to Massuebe, 62.1 miles 26th 27th/06/04

2004-10-28T20:49:00.000+01:00

Up at 05.30 packed, done, ready to go 07.30.
Finally met "Le Patron", the old guy that runs the site. Looks like a librarian, very smart, very clean, very out of place here.
The music I heard last night was the gypsies again, they are friendly enough, no problems at all, but to look at....... I have worked on the land with some rough ones, but these people take some beating!
I think "Le Patron" has nerves of steel to be dealing with these people regularly! Up a short, very sharp hill to get out of the site, no problem in the middle of the day, but first thing ? Legs not warmed up yet! I just told this crowd I was going over the Pyrennees to Spain, they are watching me leave and I daren't stop to push.
Hell, that one hurt the legs!
N21 south to Lectoure, I was aiming for this town yesterday but stopped because of the heat, now I'm glad I stopped early. Hills and more hills. Got to the top of one and could see 30/40 miles for 180 degrees. Small rolling hills, churches, villages, patchwork of fields, landscape smooth like big waves in water, definately worth the climb. Leaving Lectoure is another horrendous downhill drop, halfway down I saw a sign telling me I'm on the D520!
OH NO!
I want the N21!
Too late, have already lost too much height. Quick decision, follow it to the bottom, check the map, work back around to my road.
When I get to the bottom? Am on the N21!
French road signposting is not an exact science, I think they expect you to know the area, to know where you are going, had me worried more than a few times.
Just keep going, aim for the centre of the town.
If unsure, take the direction that has the most houses, and eventually you will see (most likely) the back of a roadsign, stop after the junction and look back, yes, its yours, turn around and start all over again. Ha!
The one thing I really do like about their signs, there is nearly always one telling you how many pedestrian crossings are in the town you are about to pass through. Looks like the people take priority over the traffic here, I like that.
N21 to Auch, N21 straight through the middle, don't worry when all the traffic seems to vanish, and you're on a small quiet road. Turn right to Tarbes, cross the river and you're back on the 4 lanes again.
Missed the turn for D929.
Getting tired, too hot again, 5km later check the map - LASSERAN - shit - wrong road. Map says there's a campsite at Auterive, there's a sign at a turn off in Auterive pointing to a campsite, but all I can find is a Gite and Chambre D'hotes. Too tired for this now. Just south of Auterive is a church on the main raod, with a large Annexe/lean-to on one side, SHADE!!
I spent an hour in there eating fruit and cooling down, is the main entrance to the church (locked), and is also the bus shelter and a giant phone booth. Sat watching lizards run up and down the walls and texting home. Somebody watching me through the gap in the shutters from the house over the road.
Back into the oven and south again. Sign in Seissan directs me to another site, 2km of all uphill and I'm into a dead end road, heading for a wood. A derelict sign 20' high, a road off blocked with boulders, and a bloody awful road surface make me turn around again, easy downhill and on to Masseube

Masseube

Finally a campsite!! 62 miles is far too long in this weather. The girl in the office thinks I am ill, she is not far wrong! Paid my fees, stuck my head in a sinkfull of cold water and went to sit in the shade of a tree. Day off tomorrow! 62.10 miles in 4 hours 59 mins riding time.

27.06.2004
Day off, eat, sleep, look after my foot. Huge Mosquito bite and bad (3" x 3") sunburn blister, can't stand on just the one foot. Thank God for Savlon.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Masseube to Bagneres de Bigorre (Lourdes) 46 miles 28th 29th/06/04

2004-10-28T20:47:00.000+01:00

27.06.2004
Day off, eat, sleep, look after my foot. Huge Mosquito bite and bad (3" x 3") sunburn blister, can't stand on just the one foot. Thank God for Savlon.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28/06/2004
Masseube to Bagneres de Bigorre D929 - a long - straight -boring road.
For the most part level, if slightly uphill. Fell asleep when I got here, woke at 21.30, just in time for the mosquitos, what few there are here.
Marvellous!
Eat, shower, write, and try to plan tomorrows route in the dark! The road picks up after Lannamazan, another scruffy town, cross the motorway and take the D938 into the hills.

See a panoramic series of live webcams of the area here.
Scroll down, there's a lot of information there.

Wow. Real hills! Pyrennean foothills. 3*** campsite at Capvern, will have that one on the way back from Lourdes. Leaving Capvern on a long descent is another amazing vista. Perched on top of a hill all on its own, a castle couldn't have been built in a better place. Chateau de Gaston Phoebus. One hell of a sight, this road takes me straight past it. Drop down the hill seems like forever, Molere and Mauvezin.
I could live here, rural, not dressed up at all, slightly unkempt but not uncared for, farmyards opening straight onto the road. Old Old buildings, SOLID!
Peaceful.
Chickens and dogs running around, no cars past me at all here. Past the Abbey in the bottom of the valley and now the same hill up again. A one hour push. Get off and walk it, now the cars are all here! Didn't look at the drivers after the first few, they just stare and passengers point and laugh! Ha!
Pull my hat down a little and get on with it. Another tiny church almost at the top, has a barred, glassless window at ground level, can see to the alter, 12th century, why built here? Why not in the valley? WAY too exposed here in the winter? Another drop to Bagneres, don't worry about campsites, the signs say there are seven in one town.
Must be the mountain, can't see it for the mist and low cloud, but can see its base, huge! Looked in a postcard shop, this would be a nice sight on a clear day. Camp at Pouzac, just off the main road E7.83.
Smallest shower cubicles yet. Shortest shower yet! the damn light is on a timer, didn't get the chance to get the soap out!
Woke the camp up coming back, is the first time I've used the bike headlights for a while. Put them on full beam and caught a poodle full on, yapping and yelping, the frenchman chasing is sounded nearly as bad Ha Ha! Round and round me, I just rode slowly on. First night the solar lamps haven't worked, glad there's no gypsies here! Bagneres is a nice town, not dressy or smart, the traffic flow system a little off putting on a bike, but I like it here. Looks of genuine surprise at the trailer, guy on a moped at lights asking where I got it, "C'est Bon", "tres bien". Hard looks from the police here, smile, nod, and keep my head down, keep moving.
46.01 miles in 4 hours 23 mins riding time.
Hope its a clear day tomorrow, want to see these mountains.
11.30pm and now I can't sleep, wish it would rain and shut these crickets up.
Signs for winter skiing, and apparently theres a tunnel to Spain somewhere around here.
3inch grasshoper in my tent, keep evicting it but it comes back!

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29/06/2004
Been to Lourdes today.
Wasn't sure whether or not to write today, spent a while deciding.
Here's the basics.
First couple of miles flat and easy riding till the turn off left just through Trebons. Uphill for about 2-3km,(long push!) to Loucrup, more spectacular views of the foothills, and glimpses of Biggore through her clouds, then downhill most of the way! The last 6-7 km are mostly flat, roads running on what look like flood plains between the hills.
Got to Lourdes and kept taking the signs for the centre of town, till I found the tourist information office. Large glass building, rode around it twice trying to find a way past the multitude of stairs!! wheelchair ramp, sorted!
I'm not a Catholic, so didn't know what I was looking for, went to Eglise de Sacre Coeur, very quiet, roads closed no cars allowed, rode on pavements, ha! Thought I'd got the wrong place until a huge flock of nuns appeared, all guiding people in wheelchairs to the church.
Stayed a while but still didn't seem right.
Back to the T.I. looked at the map again. Picked a route to the largest of the churches but could not find it. Only a couple of turns from the office, but couldn't do it!! round and round in circles.
Took signs for hospital, maybe thats it? ......no.
Past the hospital is a level crossing on a H shaped junction. Could see an old church on a HUGE boulder on my left, kept going - this it? - no.
Down a small hill, all people on pavement walking opposite direction to mine - not good, kept going. Saw a guy trying to park his car, wife got out just stood there looking through a fence, rode past, looks like playing fields, a few nuns 200 - 300 yards away playing with kids (nuns everywhere here - nothing special seeing more) thought I'd go and ask them.
Gate in the fence, wheeled the bike and trailer in, bingo! its a backdoor to the Sanctuary grounds (but I didn't know it yet.)
Couple of large signs, no smoking no mobile phones no swimming costumes, etc. etc.
No Bikes. NO!!
Decided to get off and push, if I go slowly and smile a lot I might get away with it.
Stroll down the hill, very slow, nobody here, lots of people on the other side of a river, large crowds, but very few in the 30 acres or so on my side. Slowly down towards the river, smile bonjour, nobody saying no bikes! good!
People sat in wheelchairs under some trees opposite a cave on the other side of the river.
Is Mass, large crowd around the Grotto, singing, priest speaking. Stood a while and watched. Turned right, walked along riverbank, past the bridge, past collection of 'statues' or 'reliefs' depicting life of Christ, less people again, nun praying on her own, 300 yards from the Grotto and I'm alone on riverbank, collect some water, (still not sure what to do here!) River is bright luminous green/blue and very cold. Fast running snow melt, cloudy and clear at same time, strange.
In the shadow of a tree it glowed, actually shone! Luminous greeny blue, reflected or refracted sunlight? who knows...is a sunny day, a little spooky.
Back along to the bridge, cross over, up to the crowd at the Grotto, walked past lots of partitioned areas with candles all lit and flickering, didn't light one, not my religion, didn't want to intrude.
Webcam of the Grotto here
Watched at the Grotto a while, wanted to get past, through out of the other side but crowd too tight for the bike, back over the bridge along far bank to next bridge, cross that, under an archway to walk across in front of the church. Got about 20 paces and was stopped. Can't bring a bike into here! (What!! to myself, been here over an hour none of the religious people mind!) Been all over the site, everyone happy, all smiles, kids pointing at trailer, people taking photo's (felt a REAL fraud, I'm not a pilgrim) nuns pointing, monks laughing!.
But this officious GIT in his blue uniform flashing the walky talky radio stops me crossing 200 yards to the main bridge exit/entry, won't let me past. (there's two ways am thinking about this, more in a minute), no bikes allowed! Turned me back over the bridge, follow the river right - upsteam - phone call home stand and watch people, look around, within 250 yards I'm at the main entry /exit bridge approaching the same guy but from the other side. Can see the church facade, the whole 9 yards from here, impressive. Cross the bridge into the site but stop short of approaching him again. Stand and look for another few minutes, glad I came in the back way. Too many peoople here, videos and photographs, poses and cheesy smiles, masses of souvenir shops and people hurrying.
I walked into a quiet field with 6 nuns wearing "Deeley Bobbers" playing with some kids.
Took a last look, crossed the bridge out, another phone call home, and left.

This is a powerful place, and I won't forget it, and if anyone reading this is planning to come here, use the back door.

(My two ways of looking at this)
One. I am extremely lucky to not have found the main entrance first, this guy would have stopped me before I had a chance to see or do anything and once you have been told to leave you can't really get away with sneaking back in, whereas, if you plead ignorance and nobody has told you to go, you can get away with pretty much anything - lucky.

Two. (This didn't occur to me until much later today)
The guy in the blue uniform was right. I just wheeled a bicycle with a large trailer (covered with an anonymous tarpaulin and heavily loaded) within 100 feet of one of the most famous Catholic pilgrimage sites in the world. I spent perhaps an hour and a half - maybe more - in the buildings and on this site. I was in amongst a large crowd, at Mass at Lourdes, carrying an anonymous 80lb loaded trailer! In the current global climate of fear of terrorism I'm lucky to be here writing this! By rights I should be in a cell somewhere awaiting interrogation as to my motives for taking that trailer to that place - king lucky !! My apologies to the security guards !

Bagneres de Bigorre to Capvern, 17 miles 30/06/04

2004-10-28T20:45:00.000+01:00

Wednesday ???
Bagneres to Capvern on D938.
Found the internet this morning, but was a waste of money.
Really old Mac, very slow, very dirty.
Have to buy a card here to use the 'La Poste' machines, E7.00 to buy it, that gives you 1 hour, and then top up cards to recharge it at E4.00 per hour, similar to a mobile phone top up. Easy enough to work out what is what and where, even in French, but not a good experience. The card needs an account registering before you can use it, it does not recognise english addresses, so, if anyone is reading this and planning the same...just copy the example address that pops up on the screen, that will let you in.
Posted the parcels of holy water to Zarah and home, (see above) cost E30.00. Not bad to say that's 2 letters and 2 parcels at about 1/2 kilo each, maybe more, sent by express post.
Sat in the doorway of a crowded post office, with beggars on the steps outside, reading my email with people in the queue looking over my shoulder, I'm not surprised the internet is not popular here!(keyboard layout all different.)
Still, I have a card now, maybe the next place will be better.
Left Bagneres at about 12.00, couldn't find the way out of town, been a strange day, can't seem to motivate myself. Had my first flat tyre yesterday, leaving Lourdes, luckily was on the flat road about 3 km out of town. Pulled over against a garden fence to fix it, someone kept rattling the windows/shutters but nobody broke cover. Why is it the locals are never friendly in a tourist town? The passing cyclists didn't stop or even slow down, maybe they see too many idiots here.
17 miles in 2hours 06 mins today. Large hill past the Chapelle de Roume (or Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Roume) again, this time no mist, no clouds, could see the mountains properly.

Panorama on the way into Lourdes

Couldn't see the larger ones last time, didn't even know they were there! Snow on the summits and 30'c+ for me. Down to the Abbey in the bottom of the valley (L'Escaladieu) and up the hill past the castle again. The cows wear bells here, little Switzerland. Top of the hill past the castle (Chateau de Gaston Phoebus) is Capvern. Camp here tonight and try to get my head together again. Tent under some grapevines on a long overhead trellis, hundreds of tiny grapes all over. First time I've seen these up close, nice.

Capvern to Mane, 41.9 miles 01/07/04

2004-10-28T20:44:00.000+01:00

Thursday ?
Maybe a mix up with the dates here! I haven't missed any days with the diary.
Am stuck in Capvern, started to rain during the night, is 09.00 and still raining, hope it clears up soon. Want to get moving, got my motivation back!
Not happy about riding in the rain, drivers visibility not good, my gear stands a good chance of getting soaked and I would rather lose a bit of time looking after it than time sorting it out.
The water washes lots of gravel onto the roads, not good on the downhills and corners and when its wet its not so easy to spot.
Not much to do here! there's a post office and a bar-tabac at the top of the hill from here and thats about it. Looked over the bike last night, tightened everything, straightened the wheels, same for the trailer, so thats already done. Sorted out the route last night too, D117 all the way, so thats done, might have to go and use the tiny pool here, that'll set 'em all nattering! Ha!
Turned cold, gone from 30 + yesterday to maybe 15 today, feet in my sleeping bag to keep warm as my boots STINK!!
Miles on the dial 2386 (roughly) thats including 251 miles before I set off.
French family just parked their caravan 2' away across the front of my tent! All the space here and they choose that! now he's washing his van. Said "Bonjour Monseiur" and he answered in french and was surprised when I said I'm English, my accent must be improving, or maybe its the tan.
Talking of accents, Ive learned the tiny bit of french I know in places all across France, and I'm trying to imagaine how I would react if a frenchman spoke to me, with little english, and in accents from all over England, It must be amusing for them.
Finally stopped raining at about 11.30 - 12.00. Packed up and left still glancing at the sky! No worries, mostly flat raods and a fair wind got me 18/20 mph most of the time. D938 to Barthe de Neste to Montrieau, N117 to Mane. Couple of small hills, worst up into St Gaudens, one way roads again closed in tight by high walls and a high kerb, plenty of cars and glass on the road. Beauchalot to Montsaures on backroads D69, follows the railway, industrial but good.
Crossed the Garonne again today, is this the same river I saw before? is small and fast here, low at the moment, but can see the power here, looking at the bleached dead trees wedged against the bridge, and the large rocks all rolled smooth.
Is nice around here, not "pretty" nice or friendly nice, just relaxed, semi-rural, a little battered and scruffy in places, but in appealing way. All the houses need painting, most need re-rendering, mural type signs painted on walls all faded and chipped, a sort of careworn, lived-in feel to the towns and villages here, not all tarted up for tourists.
Dented cars don't seem to get fixed here, better things to do I suppose. The shops shut at 12ish and re open at 2/3ish. Priorities are different here. People speak to each other as a matter of course, respect and politeness taken for granted, its the norm here, even for strangers. A handshake and a smile gets a warm greeting every time! An attempt to speak french, even if atrocious, wins the day.
Nobody shouting, have not seen anybody in a foul mood, no one shouting at kids, not seen any badly behaved kids yet! Was in the queue at "La Poste" in Bagneres when a small boy about 3 or 4 ran through the queue and jumped onto the chair for the internet connection, his mother was mortified, and ALL the people in the queue tutting and quietly and gently telling him off. No Hysterics, no swearing or raised voices, just a communal "calm down lad". Wouldn't happen like that in England. Same on the camp sites (most of them have kids) a sort of extended responsibility, even if the kid isn't theirs, the parents say thank you and the kids listen, that wouldn't happen in England either.
Got another "Bon Courage" today as I left the site at lunch time, from a total stranger that I had only said hello to the day before.
41.97 miles in 3 hours 06mins riding time.

Mane to Foix, 48.6 miles 02/07/04

2004-10-28T20:40:00.000+01:00

OK. Seen a lot today, and this is probably all out of order for the day's riding (earliest stuff first etc).
Broke my speed record today.
Had this bike for about 3 years and today got 34mph on a long staight downhill, got a shimmy going, had to stand on the pedals, lean back trap the saddle between my legs and brace up, scary, but a new record :)) (15/20km west of Foix).

Donkey milk for sale at the side of the road west of Foix at Castelnau Durban on the D117. Whilst looking at the WWOOF website for organic farmers I saw an advert for a place claiming to be the only one in France selling donkey milk, if they are the only ones, then I passed them today! Donkey milk, I ask you! Would you??

Foix

Pyrennean foothills around Foix

Have been seeing posters all day advertising Montagne Art by Jacques Degeilh, I thought it was for an exhibition somewhere, till I was approaching Foix. About 10km west, on another long uphill, I came around a corner and in both fields on both sides of the road were dozens of round bales, each one was being 'pushed' by a statue of a man, lifesize. Made of chicken wire and staw, Superb! shoulders down and working away.
Put my uphill struggle into perspective!
Long long downhill into Foix.
What a place!!
An almost subtropical valley in the middle of the most Beautiful hills.
Banana plants/trees growing in gardens, Palms etc, through the town and is market day on Fridays (today).
Big market here, amazing mix of people. All races, all sizes, all fashions, midgets to Giants, colour everywhere. I really like this place.
Been seeing signs all across France for E.LECLERC, wondered what is was all about, they're everywhere, I found out today, its the biggest supermarket I have ever seen, sells everything from bicycle tyres to hamster food, HUGE (Montgaillard).
Something from yesterday. All the way across France I have only seen 1 other solo cyclist, carrying his own gear, that was just outside Limoges. Yesterday I saw 3, I must be on the right road! One was a recubmant, outside a supermarket, looked a lot more comfortable than mine and I'm obviously not the only one eating from supermarkets. Good to know! Parked next to it and went in to try 'spot the cyclist', didn't work, and he/she was gone when I came out, will wait outside if it happens again.
Saw another pass by on the road past a MacDonalds, yes I'm in France and eating Mac Junk in the carpark (they have Ice milk shakes and its hot here!) The other one was on the road, lifted his hand and 'bonjour' but looked very nervous, maybe new to it, newer than me anyway.
Back to today, St Girons is a mess, just like being in England.
Litter everywhere on the sides of the road, graffitti, even on the graveyard walls. They are all walled in here, tiny cemeteries, no Church, lots of flowers and photos. That town spoils this road, its mostly flat and level, with an average to good surface, well engineered and contoured, and all the while the Pyrennees on my right hand side, ranks of mountains one after another, and I'm on the flat and level. Ha!
Can't get over this place, as you approach down the hill are several parking spots with views worth a million dollars, look for the strange small (in comparison) spike of a hill in the middle of the valley, this campsite is just past it.
In England the mountains lead to valleys, then back up to another mountain, glaciated, ordered, predictable. Not here, they're all jumbled together, and the road winds its way between them. A new view around every corner. stone looks like limestone and the trees show well agaist it, a good mix.
Route today Mane to Foix, D117, easy!

48.61 miles in 3 hours 50 mins riding time.
3 police stood at the side of the road, casually watching traffic, no squad car. Round hats and ironed to perfection, the middle one spotted me and looked to be in shock, pointed and turned to his mate, but I was past and kept moving, amusing!
At the last campsite I noticed the French couple in the caravan next to me had a birdcage hanging in a tree over their dinner table (they all eat outdoors at about 19.30, watching each other), the bird in the cage, which was about 10" x 12" x 12" was a Robin! WHY???

Foix to Torriels Plage, 104 miles 03/07/04

2004-10-28T20:39:00.000+01:00

03/07/2004
Just woke up to a scary sound, a few days ago, leaving Lourdes for Bagneres I rode through a swarm of bees, down a gear and GO! Got through ok but this morning I heard the same sound, massed buzzing. Sat in the tent for a while but it didn't go, they didn't move on, eventually looked out and the tree I am camped next to is FULL of yellow flowers and thousands of bees. Can hear them humming over the sounds of everything else. They weren't there yesterday, maybe the tree is only just right, or maybe the bees only come here in the morning. Time to go.
Leave at 08.00.
Writing this on 04/07 - didn't get time last night. Usual roads, but this time instead of looking at the mountains on my right, I'm in amongst them. The road is turning south and the hills are getting higher! Long climb up just before Puivert round the top and look down onto amazing scene. Looks like an old lake bed, now dried out. Shelved like a swimming pool, with the shallow end in the distance (1 mile x 1 mile?). Patchwork of feilds, houses, tractors, tiny roads, all walled in on 3 sides by mountains, the shallow end is open and in the far distance I can see triangular mountians, one looks like typical "volcano", blue with distance and blue merging with the sky.
Drop into town and a steady climb out, almost at the top is a viewpoint (left) on the wrong side of the road, scruffy, litter, cigarette ends etc (looks popular) so I take a look.
"L'Aire de la Croix de Simon" I bet I can see for 100 miles from here, villages, cliffs, roads, valleys and fields all leading away. Shadows of clouds moving along the ground. I'm on the highest point so can see over the hills, this just gets better! a 3 cigarette stop!
Half a mile further on the road starts to drop into Quillon. The best yet, of the whole trip so far, this is the best. 700/800 feet, maybe more, below me is Quillan... straight down!
Another, smaller lake bed valley, this time with no shallow end, no way out.
Look at the map, no way round, look over the edge of the wall, long way down, lot of height to lose, zig zag down, follow the road.
The pharmacy sign said 19c on the top in the previous town, sign in Quillan town centre says 29c, inside a mile!
So how to get out? The D117 goes through a canyon/gorge.
The "Defile de la Pierre Lys".
A river and a road in an 80' space, white water rafters setting off here, canoeists, climbers, the first climbers I have seen in France, limestone? , 250' bolted, heavily cracked, 5C tops. Nice slabby wall my favourite!!
Flying buttresses from the right are cut through by the road giving a quarter of a circle tunnel effect, the road is scarred and pitted where rockfalls have hit the tarmac (not today -please?) Tourists driving slowly and idiots overtaking them, tiny winding road. 300' + high in places, scree slopes and vegetation, limestone and shale. Maybe 1 mile long? through a whole tunnel and the walls recede, cliffs shrink and its an uphill grind again.
Perfect new tarmac, green trees, and cloudless sky, remembering being told about Pyrennean bears, and the statues of them on the roundabout I passed a while ago, still walking, why struggle up a hill and miss all this?
From the top of that hill its downhill for 30 miles.
Tickle pedals now and again when I get to level places, and 2 small rises of maybe 100 feet max. 1 town spoils the rolling, St Paul de Fenouillet, nothing special apart from it doesn't look French, not like the France I have seen - more Spanish?
Am into desert here, tiny plants, DEAFENING cricket sounds, Almost no houses, scattered very thinly, sign for a camp site that I can't find. Down and Down, hotter and hotter, dryer and dryer, miles are building up, but its easy going here down to Perpignan, to the coast above the town, see the Med for the first time, find a site. 103.89 miles in 7 hours 59 mins riding time.
Route for today D117 from Montgaillard just south of Foix to the N9 in Perpignan.

looking out from the
top of the old prison
tower

Perpignan

Perpignan.
with thanks to
Dorothea Schuster for
the above 3 photos

Next turn north for a few miles D83 east to D81 south to Torreils Plage, Busy site, expensive @ E23.00. Disco till early hours kept me awake, good job as I had to get rid of a prowler in the middle of the night.

Torriels Plage to Ceret 04/07/04

2004-10-28T20:33:00.000+01:00

Up early and down to the beach, Sunday morning and only 8 people here.
Got to do this, roll up the trouser legs and get my feet in the Med.
Not swimming today, bike and rucsac on the beach, and all my worldly in the sack. Half hour later and I'm the only one there, looking into rising sun over flat calm sea.
Nice.
Leave town South on D81, D617, D81, approaching St Cyprien is a nature reserve on my right, large salt marsh. Nature reserve? more litter blowing about here than in the dustbin. ( I've only seen 1 bin and that was overflowing.)
Through to St Cyprien, took a wrong turn and toured the harbour/marina. A lot bigger than Peterport in Guernsey, more boats, more expensive, 3 times the size but not half as nice. Boatyards plus chandlers on the way to the D81 HUGE.
Turn right in Argeles Sur mer and head inland again. Can see a mountain in the distance with snow in the gullys on top! (Find out later its called Le Canigou, beautiful place) Still 30'c+ down here at the coast.
Can't use the D618 until after St Geris, no bikes allowed, makes life a little harder but the backroads are ok. Don't start going uphill till after Le Boulou, another easy day.
Find a tourist office with a huge sign showing a map of the area, is showing a campsites in Reynes so I'm on my way to the town, do the whole trip in one day.
Ancient bridge in Ceret, 90' high and 10' wide, 14th century, impressive.
Tiny left turn to Reynes is opposite the bakers just after the traffic lights at the landslide, half the road blocked, earth and shale slipped down, hope there was nobody under it! 500 yards long.
All pushing now, tiny winding road, uphill for 4 km.
Stop and sit on a wall, can hear music and singing echoing from the hills, am in canyon lands, looks like limestone, but its granite. Steep hills and a strip of blue sky, completely on my own with the echoes.
Into Reynes, a village spread out along canyon walls, tiny terraced strip fields and houses dotted around the slopes, took a wrong turn and climbed 6/700 feet, the road turned to unpaved gravel and stones, look left and I can see the hundred miles again, right out of the mountains and into the plain around Perpignan to the sea.
Lost.
Back down the hill, out of water. drink at the spring/grotto at the road side, beautiful, tight granite gulley with trickle of water into natural pool, enlarged with a small stone wall, 20/25 feet back and 3 to 4 feet across pool of cold cold water.
Back down to the party, is a tea dance at the Mayor's office, all outside under a tarp/marquee. Large old French lady gave me directions (turned left when I should have turned right outside the Mayor's.)
Another mile or so down and up Z roads to the farm, and there's nobody in! Small terraced fields immaculate, house is picture perfect, looking back down to the Mayor's.
Looks more like an artist's retreat than a farm, some beautiful building work, and a lot of imagination here! Left a note and found a camp site, come back tomorrow and see whats what.
Camping on D115 outside Ceret, 3 Irish girls camping there too. If this "farm" is ok and the people are good this is going to be an amazing time.

Mediterranean coast and Reynes...written 10/07/04

2004-10-28T20:32:00.000+01:00

O.K.
Not written blog for a few days now. Unsure of when I last wrote!
Is Saturday afternoon 10.07.04 evening - about 8pm. Impressions and memories of the last few days.
Arrived here about a week ago, scorching sunshine, rode from Torreills Plage down the coast. Was a strange site at the beach, very busy with holiday makers, lots of poseurs with the expensive clothes all out for their jollys. E23.00 for one night just me and the tent, expensive here!
Scottish couple with a huge camper van a few spaces down, punchy aggresive little man with scowling kids. I found him prowling around my tent in the middle of the night, soon got rid of him, he didnt come out of his van the next day... haha
Disco till the early hours, not good when you're in a tent 200 yards away! Went to the beach when I arrived, fairly busy and couldn't get the trailer through the sand so went back at 7 the next morning. Large gently sloping beach and smooth smooth blue water, looking into the sunrise, very nice. Only 8 people there but I was soon on my own, they left one by one. Dipped my feet in the Med, was a good feeling, right across France!
Back to camp, pack up and leave. Took the D81 south to Canet Plage, D81A to St Cyprien Plage runs right along the beach. Strange here, very scruffy with litter everywhere. A lone bin overflowing with rubbish opposite a salt marsh nature reserve, not being looked after, the litter spreads with the wind.
Through the marina south of St Cyprien, lots of expensive boats here, large chandlers and boat yards/drydocks. Back to the D81 to Argeles-sur-mer. Nice place but a little too busy for me, turned inland on towards the D618 only to find - no bycycles allowed. Took the back roads through St Andre, St Gervis (D3618) to rejoin the D618 further down, mostly if not all level (from memory) till around Ceret. Pretty sure I've written about this, found a tourist map/board showing camping in Reynes so decided to ride all the way. Got there and got lost! All canyons with winding roads, rising higher and higher, twisting around mountains. Take a wrong turn and its expensive in time! Sat on a wall for a rest, too hot and a steep hill, on my own just trees, the road and perfect blue sky, and could hear music echoing from the hills, very eerie but very very welcoming/peaceful. Turned out to be a tea party at the town hall.

*Town hall is just below center of this
photo. Thanks to Doro' for the pic*

Lots of people all gathered under a marquee roof. Guy singing and the crowd singing along. Took a wrong turn and climbed 600/700 feet up towards Roc de France. Had run out of water, found a spring/tiny stream in a split in the rock, 2 -3 feet wide + 20 feet back, natural pool, a cold and very welcome drink! Turned around when the tarmac road changed to unmettled surface, back down to the tea party to ask directions. A lovely old girl, huge, told me which way to go, and set off uphill again, a different hill!! Finally found the house and nobody home! Hours and Hours pushing the bike and trailer and nobody here. HAH!!
Left a note and back to town to find a campsite.
Too hot, too tired, but at last I know where I am going. Booked in for 2 nights and got some sleep.
Came back the next day and got a marvellous reception, Jean-Pierre and Jocelyn, an amazing couple. She is about 5' 3", slim, dark suntan, curly hair, dungarees, FULL of energy - bouncing around - all smiles and singing. I like her a lot already. He is about 6' 3" long ponytail, very relaxed, happy guy. Whistling and singing, completely at ease with himself and his surroundings, very likeable right from the start. Sat down, said our hello's (in excellent English) chatted for a while, told them I would pack up my camp and head on back up here tomorrow. Perfect!
Tomorrow.
Arived around 09.30 to another very warm welcome, I have a cabin at the end of a terrace, one above the house. Very cosy, turn left out of the door and I can see all the way over the hills to the sea! Beautiful.

O.K. details here all mixed up! 4 days in one
These are amazing people, there is no negativity here at all, EVERYTHING is positive from the surroundings to the conversation, amazingly warm, welcoming, even loving, atmosphere here. The house looks like an artists retreat, eclectic, busy, with a hundred different details. You see something new every time you look, again and again.
Jean-Phillipe own/runs a workshop/garage next to the house, passionate about motorbikes and sidecars, he has built a sidecar to race, in Belgium, in around a weeks time, very well equiped workshop, capable guy!
My first job... a tip run. Empty lots of old bike parts and junk into the van and take a drive to Ceret, (my first drive on French roads) a small renault van (la cart elle) following the white van man to Ceret. Drive ok. but cocked up totally at the tip. Dropped a TV into an empty skip, (large explosion as the screen blew out!) only to find its the garden waste skip. Young lady appears with a ladder and a shovel, o.k. time to clean up the mess!!
Drove back on my own from Ceret, only about 6 miles, a little worrying but no problems. Trying to drive the wrong side of the road, left hand drive, judge the distance to the kerb, watch the other drivers, read road signs I'm not used to, use a dash mounted gearbox - right handed and remember the way back "home", enjoyable.
Was introduced to some friends and again, very nice, very warm people, had an amazing meal outside their house, tiny olives (wow), salad, fish with onions - new tates, - How do they make it all taste this good? Apricot tart (apricots from the tree in the back garden) a taste explosion, fresh and cold - never had this before! this guy can COOK!!

Reynes 1

2004-10-28T20:31:00.000+01:00

Back to Reynes, and a guided tour of the property.

Reynes from Can Guillet
It includes 2 mountains and a canyon, with a stream runing through 4 natural swimming pools.
Acres and acres of trees, terraces leading up the hillside, 60 - 70 foot cliffs of cracked and worn granite opposite perfect bouldering, their own private Shipley Glen.
12 sheep running around the hill and one tiny tame one called Boomsie (with a bell) that hangs around the house. A dog called Ouzanne, doberman colours and size but a French breed, pedigree, well behaved and very friendly.
Fencing for the sheep running for perhaps a km, uphill and down dale, my job is to finish the last 200 meters, along the canyon top, through the trees. 4 chickens, a black cat, organic veg garden, apricot trees, cherry trees, fig trees, other fruits I don't recognise, this place is huge!! Lawn, chicken runs, nut trees, paths everywhere! and all the time a fantastic view across the hills to the Med!
Walked the canyon, very very smooth granite, worn by winter floods, slippery shiny with a stream running between boulders, over small waterfalls and into pools crystal clear. Crayfish and fish, bamboo islands, and tiny paths, this is a magical place. Higher and higher, every time you turn a corner something new. A gate with iron decorations, worked stones in the river, a new cliff, different trees, pools and the heat. Till you reach an impasse, a waterfall with no path around. No problem for Jean-Phillipe - straight up the side of the nearest boulder - 20 foot corner climb, trees and cracks all full with dry dead leaves and old damp moss. Over the top and up a slope, still not good underfoot, no solid ground through the leaf litter, down a little to a fixed rope. Traverse. Just one inch thick damp moss on top of smooth granite underfoot and hand over hand along the rope. Ok, nervous, but can handle that, now another fixed rope. Hand over hand straight back down to the river. Nice!! can hear a little scream as Jocelyn dives into the previous pool of cold water for a swim. Very atmospheric here! Its the highest part of their canyon, irrigation pipes run from here to feed theirs and their neighbours land, typically nice of them to run water pipes for the neighbours !! A look around, another pool with a waterfall over a high boulder blocking off the rest of the canyon, and, surprise surprise, the way in is the way out!! hand over hand again, very enjoyable now, back up the ropes.
Followed the fence up and up, over terraces, stone walls and trees, old bonfires and blackberries, crickets singing, a group of sheep, a bell on one clanging gently, stop and watch them, peaceful and calm. Down again following the fence to the house, an incredible amount of work done here, and all in a robust and inventive way. Very impressive!

Reynes 2

2004-10-28T20:30:00.000+01:00

Firstly. Rob got into Spain on Thursday 19th August, through heavy rain, up and over the mountain range!! Fantastic acheivement. mum :))

Next job, trees crowding the stream/river, fast growing and straight up. I have a tiny chainsaw and I'm to cut them down! No problem, drop 20/25, straight into the river bed then drag them out and cut them up. 30 foot tall and very slender, an enjoyable day, eating fruit from the orchard trees and padding about in the water, shirt off and loving it !! Saving the ones with a good V shape branch for props for the pear trees, the fruit is weighing the branches down too much, hundreds of pears. Paradise here.
Drive out with Jocelyn to fetch the fencing wire, at a village that's the last one in France, before the sea, right on the border with Spain. Past the old customs post, not used now, no frontier checks. Up into the hills again to a large farmhouse. Yet another amazingly hospitable guy. Shows us around the house, renovated with chestnut wood from his own forest, cut and finished himself, stone, oiled wood, and the smell of linseed and farmyards, excellent. Pick up the wire and the car is down on the springs, with a steep climb out, Interesting !!
Cork trees with their bark trimmed of at 6 feet line the road back, cattle in the fields.
Stop at a tiny village, maybe 3 houses and the mayors office, everything very well finished, timber guard rails along the edge of the road, no cars allowed, details in the paving, spotlessly clean, time taken in the choice and design of everything. Very well done, stopped again to look at a roman fort, none of your "National Trust - keep to the footpaths" just a small sign telling you what you are standing in and a trust that you are responsible enough not to change it, I like that.
Signs and writing on the road "non THT". The government here wants to run High Tension power lines across the mountains to sell electricity to Spain, this mountain pass is their chosen route and the people here are very much against it.
Back to Reynes and unload the car, and meet Julian, Jean Pierre's youngest son. A nice lad, teenage, motorbike, would like to be a mechanic.
Next job, early morning 8 ish, one of the sheep is injured, has a large open sore on its side, need to catch and treat it. Every morning Jean feeds them soaked grain, walking up the mountain with a bucket calling "Margie" and tapping the bucket. These are well trained sheep! they come to the call, and all crowd around to eat. A perfect time to catch the black one. Jean gets it by the head, but I am too busy keeping hold of the dog and watching it to notice by the time he says "come on" and I get hold its too late, the animal is very strong and it breaks free and runs leaving us both flat on the ground and me with a serious amount of egg on my face, feel a complete fool!! let them both down, it still needs treatment. MISTAKE!!
Back again the next day and determined not to do that again, they all come to feed but the black one hangs back, I climb up a terrace above and circle round hoping to drive them to Jean, but, no, they must see me as the easy way out and all come to me! Not going to be foiled again, a rugby tackle later and the sheep is caught, hell these things are strong! Confidence a little restored but still egg to remove from my face yet.
3 sheep been missing for several days, I saw them in the canyon whilst cutting the trees and 2 days later they are back, whilst planning the route for the fence, Ouzanne and Jocelyn spot them from the top of the canyon. Call to Jean, sort a stategy, go up, then into canyon to push them down and find they are already cornered, stuck on a ledge 3 foot wide and narrowing to nothing, unwilling to climb further, a GOOD drop to one side and definately staying put. Wrestling again. Jean takes the largest by the back legs, balancing on the edge of the ledge (!!) but its well braced and he cannot flip it onto its back (strong) takes 2 of us to turn it over, meanwhile the other 2 have scarpered upwards with the commotion (why didn't they do that in the first place?) leaving us with a large, frightened, and unwilling cargo to haul up the scramble to the top, good job it had a collar on, good job I can climb. This is an extremely likeable and capable guy, but I feel the need to teach him some ropework.

Ceret

2004-10-28T20:27:00.000+01:00

Day off on Saturday - today - a trip to Ceret. Its the Feria, an annual festival.
A 3 day party focussed around a bullfight. Lots of drinking and the music is loud enough to be heard in the mountains (I can hear it now - 11.45pm)
At the end of each night the fire brigade clears the drunks from the streets and puts them all in the sports stadium, dousing them with water occasionally.
Armed police have road blocks either side of town, breathalysing everyone driving. Jean passed through at 6am today, they had caught perhaps 30 people and kept them by the side of the road, no fines, no charges brought. Just wait two hours, blow into the bag again and if you are o.k. then you can drive away, if not, wait another two hours!
I like this too. Heavy handed with the guns, but allowing for the festival and resulting drunkenness.
On Saturday night they just seal the roads, nobody drives out of here.
The market this afternoon was excellent, lots of small farmers selling their products. England should have this. Stop the supermarkets and let the people be people, stop the image building and expectation of product appearance "pefection". Appearance over all else, and let the best produce sell, not the supermarket "buyer" decide which LOOKS the best for the shelves.
Food galore, samples to be tried, friends to chat to, bought some delicious duck pate to send home.
Blokes in red shirts everywhere, red for the blood of the bull, a red bandana around the neck means you've seen the bulls. Bands playing in the cafes, plywood bars quickly made lining the roads. All cars kept out of the centre, lots of people, a good market! From spices to pottery, underwear to fresh bread, souvenirs to "indians" (real) complete with feathers dancing in the street, busking for CD sales.
Saturday night - Jocelyn's brother and sister in law visiting from Brittany - just driven 930 km to be here, I feel out of place, this is a family event, I don't speak the language, am a stanger here. These are all lovely people and their hospitality is absolutely second to none, but I need to get out and let them get on with it.
What have I learned so far.....
Irrigation - drip feed and pressure spray fed from a river above the level of the land, how to kill chickens the French way, brushed up my tree felling, how to keep a sheep controlled when its caught, (when its caught).
I can understand more French now than I thought I would after a week, but still can't recall it fast enough to be able to speak to people.
I can drive a car on the right of the road, with a French gearbox (easy), not bad for 5 days, O.K.
Need to line the inside of the small polytunnel with small guage chicken wire, there are animals here that suck the blood from the chickens and that kills them. The jobs half done already - will finish it in the morning. Then the fencing, not an easy route to take, plenty of ???? trees and brambles, thoroughly overgrown, will take some time to clear. I'm not sure I'm going to learn what I wanted to here, but will stay as long as I'm welcome, and learn what I can, this place is breathtaking and the people wonderful, I would love to stay longer than the month, but need to learn the walling, perhaps the next place?..........

Reynes to Lezignan Corbiere 97.1 miles, 09/08/04

2004-10-28T20:26:00.000+01:00

O.K. Moving again.
Am writing this on Tuesday morning 09.00.
Left Can Guillet yesterday morning 05.30. What a relief! A big weight off my shoulders, no more trying to decipher peoples motives as well as the language and at the same time! Its complicated there.

Rode down to Reynes Pont and arrived just as the street lights were switching off - perfect timing for the bakers at the bottom of the hill. 2 chocolate bread rolls + 2 chocolate eclairs, a large bottle of ice cold water - Perfect breakfast :)
Fresh baked half an hour before by someone that definately knows his business.
On to Ceret and bought some cigarettes, now I can smoke freely, no pressure not to smoke, dissaproving looks and comments. Need some new panniers but the bike shop doesn't open until 14.00. Bought a top rack last week to reoganise my luggage and take some weight off the trailer, works well, is more streamlined and balances better on the bike, new speed record now - 36 miles perhour - downhill somewhere around Caves and Sigean.

Decided to follow the pilgrimage route to St. Jacques de Compostelle, there are several choices here, but I join the "Via Tolosana" soon and that is more of a major route (I think).

Signpost on the N120,Spain.
Running alongside the
Camino de St Jacques de Compostelle

Had my feet in the Mediterranean on Sunday afternoon at Argeles sur Mer...
...and on monday morning I started the pilgrimage in Elne, near Perpignan.

Perpignan

A lovely town with a large "cathedral" on top of the hill, all cobbled and smooth granite paved up there, superb view over the town. Couldn't get a route card/book (credentials) to be stamped so bought some postcards and kept the reciept.

Postcards of Elne

Inside the church at Elne* postcard.

Will be travelling on a set route, visiting each town but not nescessarily stopping at each one, Elne, Narbonne, Carcasonne, Foix, St. Lizier, St. Gaudens, St. Bertrand -de- Comminges, Lourdes, Oloron Saint Marie (joins the Rome trail here - the Via Tolosana) - more later as I reach them. Had a really good day yesterday, freedom again, very nice.
Travelled 97.15 miles in 7 hours and 44 minutes riding time. Was 13 hours moving yesterday, put up the tent 20 mins before it started to rain - I still have my luck!! Most of the day was in a soft, very warm sea mist, couldn't see more than about 4/5 miles at best.
I have a thermometer on the bike now, 32 degrees C all day and 25 degrees C last night, perfect - no sun, no sleeping bag.

Route yesterday = Can Gillet to Ceret, le Boulou, Elne, St Cyprienne, Canet, St - Marie, St Laurent de la Salanque, Port Leucate, Caves, Sigean, Narbonne, camped at Lezignan-Corbieres.
Municiple site on a hill, not bad, E22.00 now. The price has more than doubled, tourist season, very busy.
Can text freely as well now- a good signal now I'm away from the mountains, and again, no disapproving looks and comments. Is very nice to speak to Zarah and home.
Time to pack and move - sun has dried the tent - Carcassonne and Foix today. I like Foix, been there before.
Zarah may be adding pictures to the blog, in the abscence of my camera she will be surfing and posting relevant photos. Thank you Z >:X< R

Lezignan Corbieres to Fanjeaux, 10/08/04

2004-10-28T20:25:00.000+01:00

Left the campsite at 1200, was a rock concert very close by last night, ended at 0330. Lots of noise and cheering and shouting, cover versions of english and american songs, ended with California Dreaming, appropriate, was a favourite for Jean Pierre to whistle at Reynes.
Woke up to the sound of the dustbin men at about 6am, Stink!! Rotting rubbish in 30+centigrade for a week, the cart was dripping liquor in a constant dribble, not a job I would consider here.
Route today, N113 to Carcassonne, have got used to french towns now so not a problem to ride straight through the middle of this one. Nice town, very quiet, got here towards the end of the siesta. Found the D119 past the airport to Montreal, saw a couple of cycle tourists loaded up same as me, put on a sprint to catch them up and caught them just as they turned off my route, ha, maybe next time. Got to Montreal and the sign at the side of the road has a spelling mistake! no t , welcome to Monreal, a moments panic, have I just slogged up that hill to the wrong town.....I've done it before, easy to do here.....
Am heading back south west into the mountains again, so was mostly uphill today. The towns here are built on the tops of the hills, not so much around bridges. Usually around 13c churches maybe 13c was a good year for pilgrimages, ha.
Still on D119 to Fanjeaux, on a hill, the highest one today, what a view!! Back to where I have been today, down into the valley. Found a tiny site, 6 places and a converted barn, run by an expat english couple, Kevin and Sally Hughes. Nice people, sat talking until dark, bats flying around the table.
Site is up the small hill leaving town, about 1km on the right.
info@lachevaline.com
www.lachevaline.com

Fanjeaux to Audinac les Bains, 64 miles 11/08/04

2004-10-28T20:24:00.000+01:00

Couldnt find a supermarket today.
Saw one but it was on the wrong side of the dual carraigeway. Not eaten since 0900 this morning,(1 banana, few peanuts, half a chocolate bar) so if this makes no sense whatsoever please excuse...
Also am writing this in my tent in the dusk~dark after 64.06 miles in temperatures of up to 49 degrees C. I have a thermometer on the crossbar of the bike, fair enough its in the sun on a black bike, but so am I !!
Lots of pushing today, am partially retracing my steps on this route, have been to some of these places before on my way south, long hills up and down, knowing whats coming doesnt make them any easier. Ha.
Route today, from Fanjeaux

Fanjeaux
D119 to Les Pujols, airport, D12 to N120 south, yes its a motorway, rode on the hard shoulder, approaching it it has green signs not the normal blue ones, didnt realise till I was on it!! It must be the heat....
Got a flat tyre on the back wheel, number 2, just north of St Jean de Verges. Steel fencing staple. Had to unpack the bike, remove and repair in 8feet of space, lorries flying past.
Walked to a flyover bridge and did it in the shade (36C) I thought it would all come to an end as a messy smear on a french motorway for about half an hour, got away with it but I dont know how!! Left straight off at the next exit.
Back roads to Foix, very busy roads, bad surface and NARROW.
Been to Foix before, I still like this town, smart, clean, lots of cafes, good architecture.

On my old route now, D117 to La Bastide de Serou, D117 to Castelnau Durban,
leaving this town is the donkeymilk place again, HI Z :D, the sign says

A Sinerie de Feillet
Lait D Anesse

link here
Maybe its available over the internet Z, will have to see if I can find you some......
Maybe need to explain here, when I was planning this trip I looked at the website for the WWOOF organisation,
wwoof.org
they arrange contact between small organic farmers and people interested in learning about organic farming, accomodation is free of charge in return for a few hours work a day. One of the first places I noticed on this website was a farm selling donkeymilk, Zarah took this to heart and has been 'Donkeymilking' a lighthearted wind-up ever since.

Uphill again, the second big one since leaving Foix, whilst I'm riding the thermometer says 36 to 38C but when I stop to push its straight up to 49C, this hill and the hill leaving Foix, the heat from the road is burning my feet through my sandals, which now smell like dead animals, no exaggeration, lots of roadkill here and these sandals smell the same, need new ones!!
D117 to St Girons

St Girons

turn off just before St G north to Audinac les Bains, a huge campsite, hundreds of people here, reception speaks english thank god, I'm now a dead man walking, 3.5 litres of water all day. Got my pitch, txt to Z and home, summon the will and pitch the tent.
Shower superb, cool and takes the sting out of the sunburn.
When I checked in reception wanted to keep my ID, driving licence. I declined saying I would be leaving early tomorrow, she said ok, but please be quiet and respect your neighbours, they dont like noise, HA !!
The disco has just started, its 10pm and I want to sleep, fat chance.
I really need to get my autopilot under control, have passed through several big towns, probably over 100 cafes and havent used them, I focus on the cycling and still forget the rest, Its true the french look down their noses at me, scruffy bike tramp, and that really pisses me off, some fat sweaty waiter ignoring you can make steam come out of your ears!! I get down, and when I'm down as I've said before, this is not a good life. Cycling and camping is hard work enough
without anger too.
If I do days like this often it will damage me more than a lazy arsey frenchman could ever do. New resolution, use 2 cafes tomorrow, bollox to the french waiters, use them every day.

The disco continues,

Now playing..at an open air disco near you...Life is Life...Arghhhh kill me, end it now !!
Black lace, birdy song, locomotion, Class act here, lots of cheering and singing, I may have to go dance myself into unconciousness.

OK CANT SLEEP

so heres a song list
1. Queen, we will rock you, karaoke version, all drums none of that excellent guitar
2.What a feeling...flash dance.... not too bad, cheering
3.something french...bottles breaking, people screaming
4.Eurythmics, Sweet Dreams....now they are taking the piss, they dont know the words Sweet Dreams are ... blurb
5.chihuahua
6.la bamba
7.they've turned it down!! thank god, can hear the chuch bells chiming, sleeeeeeep

Audinac les Bains to St Bertrand de Comminges, 42 miles 12/08/04

2004-10-28T20:20:00.000+01:00

Am writing this on my day off. Saturday. Combinations of heat, injury and tiredness, in other words any excuse, stopped me writing before.
Started out from Audinac les Bains at about 0930, this is beginning to be a normal start time, not much sleep as you may have already read.
Not paying attention as I loaded the bike, I dont know how I managed it but I put my back out lifting one of the panniers, am now an injured zombie. HaHa, Bloody painful. Cant push on the pedals too hard and any twisting motion on my back stops me in my tracks. Marvellous.
Another steady day, took a backroad to St Lizier, this town is built on a 45degree slope!! Arriving had to turn right and uphill, hell what a push. Took me to Le Palais de Eueges, a hilltop castle-chateau-palace.looking down onto the town, photo, Didnt stop long, wanted to keep moving, find a quiet site and sleep.
Supermarket in St Giron,eating again, breakfast in the carpark with an audience of suspicious old ladies.
D117 to Salies du Salat, Montsaunes, D69 and D69J to Beauchalot avoids the motorway, bad memories.
N117 to St Gaudens, I remember some of this route, is only 5 or 6 weeks since I was here but I have forgotten so much!! Am remembering crazy details, a shop sign, a junction, but not the overall places. Strange.
Leaving St Girons saw an english removals lorry, driver looked really stressed, ha, was a strange junction he was stopped at and nobody was giving him any space. Junction of D8 and N117. I took the D8 and left him to it. A very presentable road, beautifully kept houses and shops, more like northern france, perfectly flat at the start. Stopped at a pattisserie, E6 for a slice of pizza, 2chocolate eclairs, and a biscuit, she weighed the pizza !! Wrapped everything up in small bags and boxes, almost gift wrapped, sellotape the works. Pretty girl, very feminine, NICE.
Glad she didnt see me eat it outside, it was gone in less time than it took to wrap.
On towards St Bertrand de Commimges, I have sign posts from the start, good, this looked complex on the map. A long flat straight desert of a road leading along the edge of the mountains, thought I had missed my turn it was so long, round a few corners and into the hills and I'm still on a flat road...hills all around but a flat route through them and suddenly

I'm looking at this tiny town built, or I should say Squeezed, around a HUGE church.

Its all fortified, on top of a 150 foot hill.
Lots of stares as I approached the church, sloping cobbles not good.
Inside is amazing, high ceilings, lots of arches, a forest of carvings and 13c paintings.

Inside, postcard*

Saw the tomb casket of St Bertrand, a tiny 3x2 black box with gilt decoration off a small corridor at the back of the church, was behind a heavy iron grille made in 1425!!
That was a strong blacksmith!!
Theres some history here, lots of relics- tiny pieces of this and that set into gold and all behind THE GRILLE
Signed the book, made my way out, down the hill to the campsite.
Tent up and crashed to sleep.
The sheep woke me up, old guy, OLD GUY, tapping his staff on the road and shouting at the sheep. Sheep bells ringing, right past the tent on the edge of the site, very atmospheric in the rain, txt to Zarah, late afternoon, church floodlit now, wow

42.11 miles in 4hrs 12 min riding time

St Bertrand de Comminges to Bagnere de Bigorre 13/08/04

2004-10-28T20:19:00.000+01:00

Woke up to church bells today, ringing for about 1/4 of an hour, 0655 to 0710, high and low pitched, single and double bells, superb way to wake up and a very good start to the day!
Slow pack up, shower, coffee etc, back still painful from yesterday. Left at 0930 back towards the roman ruins, BIG SITE here on both sides of the road, saw the fountains that Zarah was talking about, 13C, she was looking on the net at photos of this place whilst I was wandering about here, text messaging to her.
Away down the road feeling 100 percent better today. That hot day took more out of me than I realised, then a night with no sleep. Is difficult though, I dont have a base to return to, somewhere to go when its too hot. I'm Stuck with it, maybe next time I'll find a quiet spot and SIESTA, ha.
Have never known anything like that before, I could literally smell death all around me, everything smelled of rotting carcasses, me, my clothes, even the air around me. I threw my sandals away, the stink of them made me ill, they were ok the day before.
Route today, St Bertrands to N125 to Montrejeau to D938 St Laurent de Neste, road to La Barthe closed, detour through Aneres took me past a tiny stream next to a large boulder, stonehenge size, with a statue of Mary on top,

Now I know I'm on the right route. Been on the D938 before so pretty much know what to expect, took some photos, good scenery here. Wasnt expecting the lady cyclist on the hill to Cieutat, she came flying down the hill,(its about 3km long, steep hill all the way),passed me, perfect form all tucked in. Must have been travelling at around 50mph, 15 mins later and shes passing me again, this time going up, a little giggle as she overtook me (on a featherlight bike, no luggage, ahem!) then shes down again, FAST, just the sound of the wind and the skinny tyres rumbling, then again, near the top she passed me again, another giggle and a sprint to the top, she beat me.
Ashamed, 2100 miles practice and beaten by a girl, her and her bike combined probably weighed less than a pack of cigarettes, very fit, very pretty, very embarrassing!
Took some more pix at the top of the hill, wanted to do this last time, nobody could find this place in the search engines.

Chapelle de Notre Dame de Roume, perfect spot.
I couldnt take a picture of the building directly, strong sun and a cheap disposable camera, so took 2, one of the view from each side, whilst standing in the shadow.
If there's anything to reincarnation then I would like to come back as one of the lizards that live in the low walls around this place, sunbathe in solitude and splendid isolation.
Camping at Bagneres again, same site booked in for 2 nights, tent full of food and a day off tomw, red wine at E1.25 a bottle, have made it to Lourdes again, Spain on sunday eve?

List of photos on disposable camera,still need to post it home
1>2 tent at audinac, just starting the film off
3>4 bike loaded, new kit
5 church at St Lizier from the palace de eueges
6 approach to St Bertrand, from 15km away, from NE
7 st bertrand
8 st bertrand front door
9 st bertrand from campsite
10 statue on rock, anares, near bridge over river, just off D938
11 looking back to where i have just been, bike facingwrong way, edge of canal du neste, D938 after barthe
12 leaving capvern, looking towards lourdes, bagneres
13 le chateau de gaston phoebus, taken just right of photo 12, same rd 200 yds further on
14 chapelle de notre dame de roume left side
15 above right side, sun too bright and cheap camera, cant take of church
16 not sure if this will come out, will have one of these next trip, 3 wheeled hand cranked bike, bagneres
17 unloaded at bagneres campsite

Bagnere de Bigorre 14/08/04 Saturday

2004-10-28T20:17:00.000+01:00

Day off, late up, eat, buy a camera, sleep, sunbathe, write, sleep, sleep, sleep.
A little apprehensive about tomorrow, am going back to Lourdes.
I didnt write everything about my last visit, just the basics, the essentials.
Was a very strange experience, in all sorts of ways.
So I'm sitting in my tent whilst the french play badminton all around me, talking to Zarah by txt, worrying about going back to scarytown whilst the Pope is there.
I didnt know about his visit in advance and had planned to travel through on sunday anyhow, but I've just recieved a txt from home saying that the Pope arrived today, will be talking and doing a tour of the town tomorrow. Puts a whole new slant on things, lets see what happens?

Bagnere de Bigorre, Pope at Lourdes, Busy, 49.2 miles

2004-10-28T20:16:00.000+01:00

Fairly early rise today, left camp at 0830, to Lourdes. Got through Trebons ok, still a terrible road surface here!
The police appeared at the turn off to the D937 Montgaillard, still miles from Lourdes and here they are, watching the traffic.

this house is for sale, in the mountains near Lourdes, couldnt you just....

On the roadsigns "Lourdes" has been covered with black tape....why? Do they want to keep people away? Good job I've been down here before and can remember the way.
A few miles later and the police are thicker on the ground, cars, motorbikes, minibuses, all buzzing around, and here I am again with the same trailer, still anonymous, riding into town.

Lourdes, Southern France.

When I got there the place was empty, I mean EMPTY...nobody but police, 6 people sat in the park next to the fountains, 3 or 4 cars at the lights, and a public transport imitation steamtrain with a few people on board.
I was expecting crowds of people, queues of traffic, blaring horns and overheated irate stressheads, but there's nothing here, and the police arent paying me a blind bit of notice, nice!
Straight around to the backdoor and the road is closed at the level crossing, a ford transit sized fire engine is waiting to be let through, the gates open and I went through with it, alongside, so far so good, the policeman didnt see me.
300 yards later and I'm at the fence again, looking over the crash barriers, I'm the only one on the road, maybe 15 people on the footpath, I quickly lean up the bike, hop over the barrier, and there's the Pope, 200 yards away. He's on stage with a crowd of thousands watching from the field. So this is where everyone is.

I'm there perhaps 10 mins when the plain clothes police turn up to inspect the bike with one of them staying to guard it, then the mounted police arrive - give it a look over and tell everyone off for climbing on the fence, still nobody touches or moves my bike. More police, blue ones this time checking it out. Took some photos and watched for about half an hour, then owned up, ok its mine, was ordered out of town, ha, politely but firmly, ok you have seen him, now please go! No hysterics, no stress, just a weary guy in a suit and tie in 34 degrees heat, Class!!
Leaving town I bumped into an english cyclist, heard him asking directions in french worse than mine!! rode with him until Arudy.
He'd been here 6 weeks and was more than a little pissed off. Couldnt get along with the french. Hadn't brought enough gear with him to make himself comfortable. Had quit his job as a warehouseman to come here, try something a little different for as long as he could. I think I persuaded him to return along the coast to St Malo, maybe he'll find better luck up north, they are a little friendlier there.
Temperature today off the scale on my thermometer, thats more than 51 degrees in the sun, found a site in Buzy, nice small village 15km SE of Oleron st Marie, crashed to sleep again, too bloody hot here.
Very quiet site, families, rural and up in the hills.
Just started to write this and some bloody fool teenager decides to try and jump over my tent, he landed 2/3 of the way across and slid down the side. I erupted, too tired, too much heat, and don't need this bloody fool ha!! Hey Fck off!! in too loud a voice (I was in the tent) sent him running, cant see any damage but I'm not looking forward to the next rainstorm now. Walked over to his van fists out and gave him a bollocking (I had to look up, he was taller than me ) he had 2 mates there with him egging him on, lets see what happens tonight. Then an apology to an english couple for the language, they said they saw what happened...but didnt think there were any other english here until I shouted, not good, they didn't come here to listen to that!
Route today, Lourdes D937 St Pe de Bigorre, L'Estelle Betharram,D35 Asson, Bruges D394 Arudy, D232 Buzy. V good dolmes on the main road, excellent.
49.26 miles in 4h 20min riding.

Busy to Osse en Aspe 16.08.04

2004-10-28T20:15:00.000+01:00

Was a thunderstorm last night and just as I'm writing this, theres another one brewing. Lots of noise and a few spots of rain.
Last night was enjoyable, 6 out of 10 for the lightning, 7 out of 10 for the thunder, and 10/10 for the nutter with the fireworks.
Rockets, bangers, airbombs, multicolour flares, all in the middle of an excellent storm. Not sure who was letting them off but combined with the storm it was the best display I've seen for years.
This campsite is right on the curve of the top of a hill, full marks for bravery, running out and lighting the blue touchpaper in all that weather, half an hours worth, superb !!
Tent didnt leak, no problems from the teenagers.
I woke up to a low cloud fog, misty and warm, packed everything away damp, smelling now.
Straight to Oleron St Marie this morning. I join the Via Tolosana here, the main pilgrim trail from Rome, and finally get my card, my credentials, I cant get the certificate without it!
Visited 3 churches in Oleron to find the right one. Notre Dame is new, nice but not the one, then to Le Croix,

Eglise de la Criox, Oleron st Marie
The statue is of St Marie.

What a place, tiny, tucked away on top of the hill, amongst ancient buildings that have the second floor jutting out over the first, all leaning and timbered, still lived in, normal daily life!!
Big statue outside the church, masses of carvings and gilt work inside, scallop shells worked into the roof, absolutely beautiful. The floor is so polished with use its slippery when dry.
(The storm's picking up now, I hope theres no serious hail.)
Took some photos and was leaving town when I noticed a sign for another church, St Marie, 12C, took a look and its the pilgrim route church?? All the literature on the walls, staff to tell you you're at the right place, maps full of pins to show where people have come from, but not a scallop shell to be found... Nowhere!
I'm not convinced this is the right church. Fair enough its bigger than Le Croix, has more impressive external architecture, and has smart surroundings, but it doesnt have the feel of age, the look of centuries of use like Le Croix. That felt OLD and loved, this place is dry and dusty. No doubt its an old church, but for me its not THE old church, go to Le Croix.
Down to the tourist office to collect my credentials card and its the same woman that was in St Marie,
"You need to see my colleague", she says and leaves.
Fair enough, see the other lady,
"No its not me, she will be here in 2 hours"
Marvellous. I'm getting the runaround.
Took a tour of the town to find a supermarket and stood in the carpark looking over the rail at the river eating patisserie. Not a good place, litter blowing around, hostile glances from other shoppers.
Back to the tourist office and another hours wait, outside in a sterile courtyard, no shade available here.
Have picked up a bad feeling from this town, it's left me bad tempered and edgy.
Left town at 1530 due south towards Somport, into the mountains, a lot better there.
Stopped at Sarrance,

Eglise de Notre Dame, Sarrance

Another little beauty, more photos.
Busy road to get here, lots of traffic, lorries, I think its a main road to Spain.
A very jovial french priest giving a guided tour of the church at Sarrance, I didnt understand all he was saying, but laughed along with the rest at his tone, timing and body language, an excellent guide.
Found the campsite, 8 pitches, half empty, E5.40 for 2 nights, up in the mountains, tiny village with big eagles circling above.
Had to stay 2 nights, this is like the lake district but a little higher. Has the french characters here. The guy next to me, on his own in a tiny tent is talking to himself and singing, maybe he doesnt like thunderstorms... yet another one now! Caravan and tent the other side. A nice older couple, talking earlier. Looks a semi permanent set up, they have turned up their tv to combat the thunder, rapid fire blurb, just the same as the english junk but in french.
Someone has just tripped over a tin pan in the dark and rain on their way to the toilet, AHGHH MERDE!!
Giggles from the gorgeous young girl in the flash car, massive thunder, my tent is stretched tight and the rain is drumming. I really like it here. Osse en Aspe. municipal site.

Osse En Aspe, Southern France.

Osse en Aspe 17/08/04

2004-10-28T20:13:00.000+01:00

View from the campsite gate

Another day off, I couldnt pass this chance up, less than 2 quid a night in stunning surroundings.
Everyone has gone out, or left.
Text message from home, waiting for house survey. Not good. Am worried for them now. All happens at once eh?
Zarah gone home to the Phillipines for a month, a good holiday with her family, I hope she enjoys it.

View from the tent doorway, Osse.

Silence here, the odd dog barking (at night theres one sounds exactly like American Werewolf in London, the moors scene).
Birds singing, rains stopped and now a cool breeze and sunshine, 22 degrees, a nice change, sat on a borrowed stool and the tree I'm leaning on is rocking in the breeze.

Catch up on some sleep.

Osse en Aspe to Borce, 18.7 miles 18/08/04

2004-10-28T20:10:00.000+01:00

Osse en Aspe to Borce 18.7 miles 18/08/04
Left Osse at 0900, hellish wind all night!! tent was excellent, Vango Equinox 350TBS. superb!!
Battered all night and doesnt show it. The germans that arrived late yesterday didnt fare quite so well, they caught a train to Perpignan, lightweight cyclists, a 3 week holiday across the Pyrenees, I hope their tent lasts the distance, didnt look too good this morning.
Ossa to Lescun, what a climb!!

Lescun village

5km of steep hill with a 40 kg load on the bike,not looking forward to Somport now.
Village built in a cirque, good photos,

View from the village

Tiny church with the tower in scaffolding, but have not climbed that hill to be put off by Danger-No Public signs.
This is France,they dont mean it, ha.
Not a poor village but the church not looked after here, front ripped off the donation box, hinges all twisted, candles that wont burn, wedding invites from 10 days ago still scattered about the place, no scallop shells and a feeling of desolation.
No wind here though, all along the main road through the pass has been into a strong headwind but nothing here, strange, maybe the cirque is stopping it.Photos and a long downhill to the main road again, south to Borce, population 100.
My legs are not good today, that climb was difficult, theres a campsite sign and I'm taking it.
Borce is en route for the pilgrim trail, get my card stamped and find a pitch.
Its a tiny place, narrow streets and very well kept, looked after. Water troughs everywhere, the bar is also the village shop, no beer for me, just enough in the shop for a days eating, someone has been busy in this town, organising and regulating, they have done a good job.
No campsite though so its back to the refuge I passed earlier and eat. Duck pate, fresh bread, orange juice and strawberry jam, with PLATES and GLASSES and a TABLE with CHAIRS, I like camping, but after a while.....
Also, I'm not in someone elses house, I'm alone and can relax in some privacy, in a 12C building adjoining an old empty church.

Hospitalet de Borce

Whilst I'm in the kitchen I can hear the piped music in the church coming through the wall, spooky, chanting, choir and solo.
How many people have stayed here?? It doesnt even bear thinking about...
E10 a night. Miles today = 18.76 in too many hours

View from the velux window in above photo

Borce France to Canfranc Spain, 19/08/04

2004-10-28T20:07:00.000+01:00

Leftborce france to canfranc spain 19 08 04
Am camped at Canfranc on the French Spanish border, high up in the mountains. Got caught in the rain for the first time yesterday, crossing the Col de Somport. All day, pouring rain and low cloud so I didnt get to see much of the scenery.

Somport road on a clear day...

Took a photo of the customs post/police station at the top with the height signpost to remember the biggest hill yet,

With the strongest winds today too, I didnt think it would be that cold!!
My poncho isn't waterproof, what a time to find out, it just acted as a huge sail pushing me back down the mountain, HA. As I went over the top to wheel down the other side my legs were shivering that much my feet were jumping off the pedals, I had to stand up to control it.
Didn't find a shop yesterday, all tiny houses scattered about, no towns to speak of. Passed the french ski centre, rested amongst the cowpats for a while and ate a 2 day old sandwich I found whilst digging out the ... ahem... waterproofs.
Got over the top and found lots of spanish hotels, souvenir shops, a lot more developed than the french side, all flash but didnt stop, wanted to get back to the tree line and out of the WIND.
Walked straight past the shop on the site, didnt realise tienda meant shop, am learning spanish the hard way, it's closed now anyway as it's out of season.
Beautiful here, just at the edge of the trees, can see the sun moving down the mountain opposite, is 0830 now...

Drying my clothes, waiting for the sun to come over the tops

...should be here to dry my things at about 11?
If the campsite owner is not too pissed off with me (I didnt book in, he wasnt about and it was raining), then I may stay here 2 days and get everything dry again, they have a washing machine and a dryer!! will take 2 days to dry my boots out.
A good start to Spain.
Have heard spanish spoken now, and I dont understand a word!
My spanish phrasebook was bought in France so its french/spanish, good for learning more french but hardly a quick reference guide, and the pronounciation is for french speakers, ahh well, should be interesting....
Hopefully will meet some English speakers on the trail or in the hostels or maybe get by with very basic French.
Looking at the route it should take me 1.5 to 2 weeks to reach Santiago, depending on the mountains and their weather.
Met an american couple in the hostel at Borce yesterday, he over 6' very slow, gentle giant, she 5'2", very voluble, a very likeable couple, not at all like americans I have met before, they have spent time in communes ashrams etc, good thinkers in a quiet and peaceful way, there are good ones after all, my opinions of americans are changing, they are not all Bush fans.
Another coffee and a smoke and go and face the music at the site office, COLD here, 5'C now.

OK sorted with the boss, thank god he likes bicycles ... "bicicleta, muy bien"
more spanish learned, this is going to take years...
Suns moving fast, incredible view here, clear air and small fast clouds. Temperature up 4C in half an hour, looking good.
No batteries for the phone charger, I boiled the last one yesterday to wring the last volt from it, cant talk to Z or home, need to find a supermarket. Should be Jaca, is a fair sized town on the map.

Canfranc to Sigues, 20/08/04

2004-10-28T20:06:00.000+01:00

OK, writing this on the 21st, all downhill to Jaca...

Looking back at the mountains from the spanish side.

To Jaca, all downhill...

...18 miles of it, marvellous. Found some small shops, stocked up on cigarettes, 10packs for E20 - big surprise. Batteries, lots of food, and I'm moving again.
Photo of the border from the spanish side, it's all different here, the road and landscape is wide open.

Jaca

Entering Jaca is a little scruffy, graffitti on all the walls and roadsigns but once past the university its all ok, smarter, another nice town. Smart people, lots of boutiques, but I still havent found a supermarket bigger than 50' square.
N240 out of Jaca, large campsite, took a ride round, busy, dirty, lots of 4x4 with caravans, I didnt stay - just rode out again, reception didnt like it shouting at me but it's not my problem.....
N240 all the way, not an attractive road but no worries, camped just past Sigues. Good photos in the tourist information brochure, people windsurfing, motorboats and sunshine at the side of a huge lake. Paid, got inside and its a shanty town on the side of a hill. LOTS of old caravans boarded up, some open and lived in, deck chairs and flowers next to rust and broken windows, all under corrugated iron roofs.
Camping at the bottom of the hill next to the lake, good choices, set up next to Frank, the Flying Dutchman, 68 years old and still doing long distance cycle rides. On the other side, a very friendly Portuguese couple, they gave me the lowdown on where and where not to ride in Portugal. He's a cyclist himself and is planning to do the Camino too, nice guy. I have tips on beauty spots, danger areas, good places to eat, good places to stay, and a few words of Portuguese to get me started. An emergency telephone number if I get stuck (thank you Silvia) and an introduction to Fatima, a major pilgrimage site in Portugal. A lovely couple and a very productive evening, helpful info for later and a riding partner for tomw, Frank.
Camping Mar del Pirineo, Sigues

Sigues to Mendigorria, 47 miles, 21/08/04

2004-10-28T20:03:00.000+01:00

sigues to mendigorria 47 miles 21.08.04
Set off at 0900 up the hill past the shanty town. People feel unhappy here to graffitti the walls in the washrooms ?? Not good.
After the cleanliness of France its a bit of a disappointment.
This is a beautiful spot on the shore of a large lake made by a dam a few kilometers downstream, and looked after it could be very very nice indeed.
Site is between Sigues and Esco on the main road, but on the map is marked at Sigues, an expensive mistake at the end of the riding day. 2 gorgeous girls in the tourist information office softened the blow a little though, very nice to try and talk to (I can't speak spanish at all yet.)
N240 almost all day today, lots of hills and traffic, when I found the campsite last night I noticed another touring bike so I stopped to talk. Old guy, Dutch, done the camino 3 times!! He's also done 10,000 km around France, Spain and Italy in the last few years, amazing.
Asked me if I would like to ride with him today, nice enough guy, lots of experience, and it's been a good day. Only 47 miles and his pace is a lot slower than mine, but good to speak english for the day.
Got a little dodgy at the campsite tonight, reception charged for the bikes and he wasnt happy about that, I thought they were going to kick us out for a while, but I calmed her down, is ok now thank god. There's not another site for miles and its 6pm. Landscape strange today, is very loose broken shale, almost gravel, eroded and bare, a few bushes and trees holding the top of the slopes together.
N240 to lots of tiny villages, just a few houses and farm buildings, busy road though, lots of construction work going on, building a motorway alongside the main road, will be better to ride here in a year or two.
Also building a canal, concrete river just south east of Pamplona. Can see the quarries for miles, huge holes in the side of a hill, monumental scale.
Lots of new housing developments around the old villages, stark contrast between new regimented new townhouses with their square gardens and design, and the old twisting streets and assortment of colours and shapes of the houses.
Ate dinner today at a petrol station, sat on the forecourt, next to the door.
Cheers Frank.
Not many shops here, even tiny ones are hard to find, so dinner was kitkat and biscuits whilst seriously dodgy looking geezers in battered toyota pick up trucks watched in silence, those trucks get everywhere! A nervous lunch but Frank was needing to stop, fair enough.(Monreal)
Missed a turn and went through Torres to get back to the N234, took us under the new canal, through tunnels that echoed like cathedrals. New concrete and no traffic, almost modern art, and good resting spots in the shade.
On to Campanas, Ucar, Santa Maria De Eunate, a templar church, round with an amazing design, they have used marble sliced thinly in the windows instead of glass which gives a very smooth light inside, takes a while to adjust from the glare outside. Cool and calm, stamped my card, and another one for Z.
On to Puenta La Reina,

Pyrennees in the background...

The town is closed for the siesta, I would like to see this town open, tiny narrow streets and wide boulevards combined, small town, but good design.
Campsite at Mendigorria, Butlins spanish style, heavy metal music since we got here, expensive internet, very busy pool, shop etc, all in the middle of nowhere.
I can hear gunshots in the dark - someone is playing games somewhere close and nobody here is taking any notice. Lots of chattering in spanish, kids running around, bikinis everywhere, nice.
47 miles today, set off 0900 arrived here 1800.
More gunshots
10pm and the music is just as loud, Frank's not happy again, ha, good job he has earplugs.
The metal music has stopped now and I can hear very slow soft jazz somewhere in the distance, lots of bass, laid back and relaxed. Gunshots are now smaller calibre, not quite as bad as the cannon they were using half an hour ago, echoing from the hills, it's ermmmm atmospheric.
sleep.

info@campingelmolino.com
www.campingelmolino.com

Mendigorria, Estella, Logrono, Santo Domingo, to 25/08/04

2004-10-28T19:58:00.000+01:00

Ok, havent written for a while, yesterday got to the camp on the riverbank at Logrono and went straight to sleep, 5pm, put the tent up in a daze and slept. My first sleep since the 21st, FRIDAY EVE.
3 nights no sleep, NO sleep.
First saturday, a feria and bullfight all night, gunshots, music, more music, party finished at 0930 on saturday morning, just before we rode through town.
Next - sunday, a cacophany of snoring, a snorers convention, and me in the middle. Frank had had one of those days, just too many miles, I know the feeling, drained completely, so we stopped in Estella.

Puente de Estella
A big site just out of town on a concrete road along the river side, uphill.
In a situation like this you take any site that comes along and this was it, Snoretown.
A day off was needed. Eat, rest, sleep, sightsee, that meant 2 nights there, gulp!
I spent lots of time walking around the site in the middle of the night.
Sleepless day 1 not so bad, Mendigorria to Estella.
Day 2 was a day off, wandered around the town. Lots of history here, I like the feel of this town.

Estella backstreets,photo by John Layte

Iglesia de San Pedro de Rua, Estella

Day 3 was hell, Estella to Logrono, 40 miles in a hazy daze. I dont remember much, hard work and hills, wrong turnings, always the roadsigns but never the town, Logrono in the distance. Waited for Frank at each turning and junction, falling asleep as I stood. Autopilot took over, bulldozer head as G + M say....
Mr Machine, get the job done, I thought I had left this behind in England.
Had Frank worried, fast riding in traffic, snap decisions, instant turns, fast downhills, must be ingrained behaviour, tired and still going.
As I say, I dont remember much.... autopilot.... safe but scary.
Bought some earplugs.
Today, Logrono to Santo Domingo and its motorway again, for the 3rd time on this trip. A12 to N120, uphill and into the mesas, with mountains all around and 50 mile views, Amazing.
Long long hills in 35'C but worth it when you get to the top, flat for half a mile, FLAT, like lincolnshire, then downhill off the other side, looking across empty cornfields at mountains blue in the distance, cliffs, crags and spires, all picked out white by the sun.
Jagged horizons.
Riding with this guy may be doing me some good, at the top of the hills he is 1/2 a cigarette behind, but always pedalling, not pushing.
He's mostly a dot in my mirror for the best part of the day, but an 11 mph dot. I cant race off, push the hills, do the 60 to 80 miles a day with this guy. I cant spin myself into complete exhaustion every day, which is what I am used to and have been doing every day for years....maybe this pace is a good thing.... maybe.

This Camino business is not just a road trip, its psychological as well, I have to adjust to what I find all the time, whether thats 50C in Buzy and Foix, or 5C in Canfranc (without the windchill). From isolation not knowing the language, to thinking twice talking to someone that doesnt have English as a first language. From no food for days to a glut when I find a good shop. From exhuastion and still need to move on, to resting and restless, waiting for someone else to recover. Sights and sounds changing constantly, familiar situations handled in a different, foreign way. I need to think twice so as not to offend, hmmmm.... a long way to Santiago de Compostelle in more than one way.

Logrono, busy metropolitan town, beggars at the cafe next to well dressed business people, pedestrian crossings, they dont have that inane imaginationless beep beep they have in England, they play birdsong!! The green man lights up here and canaries start whistling, haha, nice.
to be continued.....tired and a queue for the internet machine.

Santo Domingo to San Juan de Ortega, 35.8 miles, 26/08/04

2004-10-28T19:56:00.000+01:00

Santo domingo to san juan de ortega 35.8 miles 26.08.04

Left camp at 0915, cool, good weather, no sun, backwind.
Had done about 10 miles when Frank got hit by a car.
Driving on the right here, N120 towards Burgos, busy main road with a left turn to a village. I crossed for the turn off, stopped and waited, heard screeching brakes and turned just in time to see smoke from the tyres and one of Franks saddlebags flying through the air.
A small green renault, family hatch, in the middle of the road, 30´ skidmarks crossing the white line.
My mind was blank, parked up, deep breath and walked over. Bits of plastic all around, big spanish lady very upset, small spanish guy calm and slow, lorry behind put its hazard lights on and stopped the traffic, a queue backing up already. Bits of Franks gear up the road, broken scallop shell, I couldnt see the bike.
Now I'm thinking, too much, stood on the other side of the road, checking traffic (twice) before I crossed. The lady is all ´lo siento, lo siento´, the guy is putting on an orange hazard vest-high viz type thing. I still cant see the bike or Frank. Look at the lorry driver but he´s not looking at me, he's staring at the verge, oh shit!!
Looked back at the car and there's Frank, large as life, with a look of complete surprise on his face. I walked around the car and looked him over- hardly a scratch, a small graze on the left leg and thats it!
The car had swerved just enough to take off the left saddlebag and break the end of the left pedal, the only thing completely irreparable was the scallop shell (which was fastened to the bag.)
The plastic was from a broken indicator unit on the car (!) and probably from other accidents too.
A calm down for the lady, explanations from the guy, (its ok mate, I saw enough and Frank's ok), collect the gear, handshakes all around and its over, they drive off.
Frank is 68, he had a stroke a year or so ago which affected the right side of his face,he rides with an eyepatch, looked over his shoulder but didnt see the car.
Surprise surprise, this makes me nervous !!
Fix the bag, a 2 minute job and ride up to the village. Sat at a pavement cafe next to the church and exchanged emergency telephone numbers.
Serious Business.
Coffee and a doughnut, and, oh, just in case, here's my brothers phone number, he's not home on wednesdays.....
A surreal situation, made all the more strange by the arrival of 5 aussies. Camineros, who had not an inkling of what was occurring here. Sat at our table all laughs and ´bon camino´.

writing break for the bar.

Wine at E0.80 for a half pint glass, (its E0.43 a bottle in the supermarkets, and its not bad stuff) closing time 22.15 and we were the last out, pint and a half of ´vino tinto´ and I'm loosening up a little. Franks comment just now about the accident,
"I had eggs in that saddlebag, good job I boiled them this morning."
End of story.
The bar was full when we arrived, noisy friendly, no shower, no change, nobody minded. Olympics on a portable tv with bad reception. Guy in a suit, older than Frank, straight from the godfather with a BEAUTIFUL girl on his arm. Frank paying for the second round, hundreds of euros on the table and his credit cards out, people glancing over, is this guy searching for trouble today?? Out of the bar and the tents are in moonlight, chilled.
Rest of the day, N120 to Burgos, thats about it, main road lots of traffic.
Saw some caves in a shale crag on a hill, looked man made, should have gone to look but time pressing, no campsites before Burgos, saw a church built into a cave with just the facade showing. Up a huge killer hill must be 3 miles long then a right turn to St Juan de Ortega

A beatiful place in the middle of a restoration. San Juan, the guy that founded this monastery was born in 1090 and his tomb is under the church here, down some stairs and into the gloom.
It took a few minutes for my eyes to adjust (I couldnt find the lightswitch).
A huge cross on the back wall slowly became apparent, then the outline of a stone coffin, very simple very plain, sarcophagus in a crypt. Minimal but with maximum impact. This guy lived 1000 years ago and he started all this, respect.
Its been a strange day from start to end, Frank has arranged camping in the church grounds, the barmaid was panicking,
´´you must go - go refugio being locked´´
´´its ok, we´re camping on the grass next to the church´´,
she pauses, its surreal again. Yup, really, camping.

Monastery at St Juan de Ortega, camping on the right at the end of the row of benches, the bar is on the left next to the refugio, just out of picture.

San Juan De Ortega to Castro Jeriz, 48.2 miles 27/08/04

2004-10-28T19:53:00.000+01:00

Slept right at the side of the Camino last night, surprised to hear night walkers (I can tell the camineros by their limps.)
Silent night as regards dogs, sheep, music, snorers, cars, tvs, partys, drunks, etc. Finally a good nights sleep.
Left at 0915- back roads to Burgos. Big town, sprawling industrial suburbs, warehouses etc, 20 mins riding through this to the centre.
Through this archway...

...and I'm in front of a huge cathedral, lots of people here.
A bronze statue of a pilgrim on a bronze bench, quality piece, why can't we have these things in England?
Quality!

The cathedral has an impressive interior, the Camino is showing me some beautiful places, it's almost a regression to medieval times following this route.
Burgos has been a rich town for a long time, letters and books from 972 and 1070ad in the museum, along with countless bejewelled relics and paintings.
On to the bike shop, Avenue de Los Catholicas (from memory). Excellent shop, new gear shifter unit fitted on the pavement, thank you lads. I was a bit nervous about letting him work on the bike, I prefer to do it myself but as I was paying the bike was being stripped outside. Almost ready for slapping him when I went out but he did a good job. I've been holding the bike in gear manually for 2 days now, not good up the hills! Left Burgos late at about 3pm and back onto the N120 again, am getting sick of the sight of this road. Chaos leaving town along the riverbank, articulated lorries cutting me up!! Diesel fumes and noise.
Out of town it's different, they've built a new motorway and the heavier traffic uses that - its like the N2020 in France - a huge cycle path.
I'm riding across mesas now, up a hill and along a FLAT hilltop for half a mile, heat shimmer everywhere with empty fields of corn stubble. No birds, no crickets, no cars then drop into a gully and climb back onto the plain.
Photo Burgos 17km? feels like the middle of nowhere.
Turned off to Yudego and its onto tiny roads again, a few beers in the small bar, lovely old barmaid, definately in charge, kid with a baby bird in a cigar box taking it round to show everybody Blokes sat talking and watching Spain playing hockey in the Olympics. Just leaving and people giving us directions to this campsite, all the flattest roads to Castro Jeriz, and a lollipop from the barmaid, ha!
Stop on the way, another old church in an out of the way forgotten village. I've seen statues and reliefs carved over doorways all the way here, the moor slayer triumphant on his horse with bodies all around. They are mostly the same, but this is the first one I have seen that the statue still has his sword in his hand, steel and rusted but still there!!
For how many years?
Now thats what you call a quiet village.
Campsite is free, free showers, free cooking, free tent, (already up), Castro Jeriz, a castle on a small hill in a long smooth valley surrounded by mesa hills, like Glastonbury but on a larger scale.

On my own in a 6 man army style ridge tent now, Space to Move :D, sleeping with the doors open cool breeze and a 3/4 moon right in the middle of the doorway. Is a farmyard directly behind the wall I'm camped against, can smell the donkeys, glad the flies are asleep now.
I have more than enough time and energy to reach Compostelle, but Frank has till the 12 sept. If we keep going at this pace we should just make it, just.
48.19 miles today

Castro Jeriz to Carion Los Condes, 36 miles

2004-10-28T19:49:00.000+01:00

Route today from Castro Jeriz, BU400/BU403 to Itero, P432 to Boadilla, to Fromista, P980 to Carion los Condes, another free camino campsite.
Not done a "route so far" for a while so prepare to be bored....
Col du Somport to Canfranc, SITE on N330,Canfranc to Jaca, N330 from Jaca N240 to just past Sigues, turn off almost at Esco, SITE, From Esco N240 to just past Monreal, NA234 to N121 south to NA601 to Puenta la Reina, N111 to turn right NA134 to Logrono. From Logrono (motorway) N232 to N120 Najera, N120 to Santo Domingo N120 Belorado, N120 turn off right (north) to Santovenia to San Juan de Ortega, SITE (churchyard if you are lucky:)) ) ,to Barios de Colina, to N1 to Burgos. From Burgos N620 to N120 to left turn south to Yudego to Castrillo de Murcia to BU404 (good flat road) to Castro Jeriz, Site free.
Very slow and quiet day today, Franks knackered, 36 miles in 3hrs 36 mins riding time, not good! All day and ridden for 3.5 hours.
Have had good flat, smooth roads, no hills to speak of, and a good backwind today. What is going to happen in the mountains after Leon?
Fromista is a fair sized village but have not really covered enough ground today to have much to say.
The refugio in Boadilla is superb, stopped at their cafe, completely unexpected perfect japanese type garden, perfectly kept green grass!! a manicured garden, swimming pool, coffee in huge home made mugs, hidden behind high mud walls and this door...

...in a tiny village

cattle and farming area, a very pleasant surprise to find this here.

Carion Los Condes to Mansilla Las Mulas, 61 miles, 29/08/04

2004-10-28T19:47:00.000+01:00

Just arrived at the site, Mansilla las Mulas, it's another Camino campsite and all free.
61 miles today. Frank stayed at Sahagun, had enough after 28 miles, I couldnt stop at these distances, just not covering enough ground to find good shops and washing facilities etc.

Statue outside the refugio, Sahagun.
Good luck to Frank, 3rd camino at 68 years, 20kg of luggage, and just after a stroke, iron man!
Very flat land today with long straights, just like lincolnshire. Huge fields of cut corn, few trees, no traffic (sunday), backwind and a lot of sunshine. An excellent riding day. Camp is at 800 metres here so its cold at night, between 5 and 10´c in the mornings at about 9am. The wind starts at about 11 and by 2pm its well over 30´c, not a cloud in the sky.
N120 most of the day today, to just south east of Leon, then turn northwest on the N601. Easy navigation, not much to see though, just push the pedals and roll along.
Got here and found out its the local feria, a big tomato fight!! Should be starting soon, time to go, I'm hoping to emerge in one piece, have seen these ferias before.

Ok, lasted about an hour, first a 3 legged race to catch a greased piglet, yes, piglet. They got it but only just, holding it up triumphantly. It escaped from the guy with the lorry so they had to catch it again, it was running around in the crowd to cheers and great delight :))
Next a 7.5 tonne lorry full of tomatoes drops its load in 2 heaps about 60´ apart in a clearing in the trees, the piglet catcher gets to start the fight. No tactics and mostly teenagers, all local, fight or flight into the trees. The idea is to capture the others heap and then use it to drive them further away, snipers sneaking around the flanks are quickly spotted and targeted by the other team. A nice new silver vauxhall on english number plates slowly drives past leaving the campsite just as a sniper is spotted, he hides behind the car and the driver cant reverse out haha!!
Total about 60 people fighting, crowd maybe 200, warm summers evening, old people sat watching judging and comparing, pointing out the strong arms. Lots of jeering and cheering, people shouting directions, and the sickly sweet smell of tomatoes, a good evening in a small town. Back to the showers and the bar. I can see the mountains in the distance, the highest town to visit is at 1450 metres. I'm at 800ish, that's not too bad. Looking forward to Leon, Gaudi buildings there, then back into the mountains, YES.

Mansilla Las Mulas to Astorga, 55 miles

2004-10-28T19:45:00.000+01:00

Mansilla to Astorga - 55 miles.
Left at 0830, arrived 1600, 5h 11 min riding time.
15 or so km to Leon, starting to climb up into the hills again. Busy roads, big town, chaotic riding conditions. Got to the Cathedral early and bought some film that wouldn't load into my camera, fiddling for a while on a bench, turned around and I'm being filmed by 2 Italians. They walk over for a chat, turns out they did the Camino themselves on bikes years ago and liked the idea of the trailer.
Pulled bike to front of cathedral for photos...

Leon Cathedral

Leon Cathedral at night

....and bumped into the aussies again, the ones from the cafe just after Frank met the renault. They caught the bus here HA. They had sent their tent ahead and were staying in refuges before I met them the first time, now they have given up walking altogether!!
Into the cathedral and get my card stamped, huge place, maybe 100´ high inside. Stained glass windows are absolutely amazing.
Came back out to unlock the bike and this time I'm being filmed by Germans! So I walk the bike around them in a circle doing a silly walk (John Cleese), they laughed and filmed me all the way.
Saw a few more things in Leon.....

Bronze Pilgrim, San Marcos building, Leon

The lumps on the front of the building are scallop shells, the emblem of St Jacques the pilgrim

....but mainly traffic, traffic, and more traffic.
The tourist map I was given in Mansilla at the site was good (thank you), but the route the girl had marked for me to follow was all 1 way streets, the wrong way on. Took the road for Astorga from the town centre, but it vanished from the signs after 1/4 mile, walking round and round a roundabout wondering where the hell I had gone wrong....(follow the Burgos signs, it's the same road). Found the signs again next to the bullring, up the hill over the bridge and into hypermarket land. Another supermarket day..... food... YES... thats 2 days now.
My trousers are falling off me and I´ve lost my belt, Im holding them up with a bootlace, compo style, erm...lost a little weight here.
Out of Leon and its a strange landscape, up a hill, long pull, and onto a plain, down a small hill and up a big one and its another plain, over and over. Small towns mostly, took a few photos, finally get to Astorga and its on top of another hill, an english style hill (straight up) not a european long slow rise. It's the end of the day and I have to push the bike, not happy!
Gaudis palace on top of the hill next to the cathedral,

Gaudis Palace, Astorga

Both are absolutely amazing, made all the more so by the scruffy little town around them. I first saw the palace across a litter strewn wasteground and a semi collapsed building - from behind and down hill.
Not as pretty and polished as the front with its trees and benches, but a good contrasting viewpoint, and from what I have seen so far, typically Spain.
Free camping again organised by Castille - Leon district specifically for Camineros, these people come from heaven....they even put the tent up for you.
Same cyclists again, 3 spanish lads (19.30) and the two Dutch people, Theo and Jannie (18.00), same miles for all here.

Astorga to Ponferrada, 37.3 miles, 01/09/04

2004-10-28T19:43:00.001+01:00

astorga to ponferrada 010904
37.33 miles in 5h 16 riding time.
This is in 2 parts because I cant write them both together, too much to think about.
Part 1
Up at 06.30 and it's still dark, light at 07.15. Packed up, walked in on a french lady in her smalls in the gents. Typically French, didnt bat an eye, "Desole, les hommes?"
Started to leave at 07.30 held up by a flat rear tyre, between the tent and the gate??. Got going at 09.00 uphill ALL the way. No main roads, nice!! Up into the hills, climb and climb, maybe 1500 feet (500m) small villages, fantastic scenery, could look back to the plains from the top, Wow....
Big scar stretching to the horizon from a recently laid gas pipeline, messy. Through the tops of the mountains and down the other side, fantastic, looking at Ponferrada from 2500´ above, hazy air, blue town.

Ponferrada below...

Rough road and very steep on the descent, hairy corners on hot brakes with the trailer pushing all the way. Tiny village hidden around 1 corner, first floors almost meeting over the cobbled and concrete street. A cold drinks machine!! FINALLY into Ponferrada, the campsite is in the back garden of the auberge,

Refugio in Ponferrada

Old walls all around and the mountains looking down at me.
Shower, Eat, Rest.
The Camino is getting busier now, lots more walkers and cyclists. Got talking to a Spanish girl on her first Camino day, squeaky clean her and her bike, perfect.
It's hard to explain when they ask "how far".
Its not just the miles its the conditions, the food (or lack of it), no sleep, the smelly clothes, roadside repairs, constant awareness "I'm not in england", language problems, traffic problems, navigation problems, fantastic days, amazing people, stunning scenery, foreign architecture both buildings and towns.
I say 2700 miles and they say "muy bien", "very good", but I dont think they understand.

You may have noticed the tone of part 1 changing, .. preparation for part 2

Part 2 ... Swine of a day!!
4 punctures in 1 day and ALL on the bikes back wheel. First before I left the campsite, 2nd less than 10 miles up the HILL, repaired next to a church on a tiny grass patch all rocks and sloping. 3rd in the village with the drinks machine, maybe glass but turning the rig on a flat tyre pulled the valve from the tube, and my remaining spare tube has a different valve.I have to enlarge the hole in the rim with a penknife. 4th down the hill about 2 miles later, (in the middle of the devastation of a forest fire). No more spares, I have to walk it down the hill.

Looking down to Ponferrada

It's about a 7km walk, a nasty push!
Each one cost me an hour, the last an hour and a half, unload the trailer and rack, fix, reload.
2 punctures in 2700 miles then 4 in 1 day, very hot very tired, more than a little oily and nowhere to wash.
On the plus side, puncture 1 meant I didnt ride in 5´c - T shirt and 2 fleeces, it was 12´c when I set off, P2 waiting for glue to dry found a staircase in the back of the church, old woodworm stairs to a belltower with excellent views, the cast bronze bells made in 1768 with fancy crucifix decorations + dates, and a lovely couple of Spanish ladies resting next to my bike when I came down again. P3 and another Spanish girl stopped to help/watch/chat. Gorgeous. Also spotted a shop tucked away, thats food for today. P4 I got walked to an alladins cave of a bikeshop by an old guy with a handshake like King Kong. Everything in this shop, 3 new tubes, 2 bungees (hard to find) for E15.00, and he properly finished the hole in the rim. Short stocky Spaniard and his wife, they had no English and I no Spanish, so we limped along with mutually terrible French.
Sweet and sour today, over the last big hills and almost there.

Ponferrada to Triacastela, 60.4 miles, 02/09/04

2004-10-28T19:41:00.000+01:00

Written 04/09/04
DID I SAY OVER THE LAST BIG HILLS??
Montes de Leon was a drop into Ponferrada.
Cordillera Cantabrica today. 1300 metres from about 500m.
Cebreiro at the top.
Live webcam of Cebreiro

Then a small drop then followed by 2 more peaks 1270m and 1300m before flying down the hill to Triacastella.
Absolutely empty at the end of the day.
Took the N1 the wrong way out of Ponferrada in the morning, just what you need, 15 miles travelled before I even started back to the Camino. HA. Turned around at the sign for N1 Bembibre.

Ponferada Castle
Turned down the side of the castle to follow the camino and I'm
finally out of town and into the next hills, hills and more hills.
Apart from a few 1 minute drops its been uphill all day. The NV1 took me through a village under the most fantastic motorway bridge I have ever seen, each carraigeway has its own bridge, at different heights, hundreds of feet above a steep valley near Trabadelo.

(thats a large articulated truck in the photo)
Traffic thundering overhead whilst I'm slogging up the hill underneath in perfect solitude, not a car in sight for hours.
Old houses doors open, stone flagged floors, people sat watching the world go by outside their houses (?? no traffic), BBQ on a wire grille on the ground at the side of the road, a pair of old boots tied to a signpost moving gently in the breeze, Camino casualties?.
Down a small incline round a bend and the bike is sliding on a mass of cowshit, this is a main NV road??
Finally to Cebriero, I can see the motorway dropping away to my left, I think I've made it, the top!! But no, turn left and keep climbing. Passed a group of spanish cyclists and they were cheering, bon camino, 2 mins later a flat front tyre and they pass me by without a word. C´est la Vie.
Over the top to more contours and small hills, and finally drop off the edge of the world at around Lamas.

Incredible, tight twisting turns on perfect fresh laid tarmac, down and down and down. Hot brakes jumping. Saw a kid with a new carrier bag, good chance of a shop. Found it, that will do nicely. Was packing the food into the saddlebags and saw a walker in a doorway, a refugio, that will do nicely again.
Bike parked up in the garage underneath (including my clean clothes, the lights down there don't work.)
A bath, they have A BATH, first since the start of june, just relaxing and a stack of walkers come knocking on the door, apparently I got the last unreserved bed, they booked ahead and now they want their bath. Tough, wait mate.
Snoring, their revenge for the bath, thunderous sickly bubbling asphyxiation and snores, 15 in the dorm, never heard anything like it and my earplugs are locked in the garage.
I slept in my bath, pillow blankets and all.

Albergue Refugio del Oribio, Triacastela

Triacastela to Palas de Rei.

2004-10-28T19:34:00.000+01:00

Something gone wrong with the dates here, I arrived in Santiago on the 03.09, but have an exra days diary......hmmmm

Triacastele to Palas de Rei.
Excellent start to the day, the snorers slept so well they are up early and don't mind waking everyone else.
Up at 0700, 2 coffees from the vending machine and I am still bleary eyed and shaking. Packed and away for 0800 still wearing the same gear as yesterday, leaving a sweaty vapour trail behind me. Continue down this beaytiful hill to Sarria and Samos.

Monastery at Samos, photo by John Layte
It's about 09.30 and I'm on good roads, nice and quiet, nobody about yet.
Dont remember much about this day.
Portomarin on the river Minho,

the river was very low when I crossed it, I could see old field walls and the remains of houses(?) and at least 4 old bridge ruins. I think this is a dammed river, these must have been lost to the water, showing now it's low though.
Passed the Italian that was at Ponferrada campsite, he was interested in the trailer, talked for ages, lightweight cyclist. Passed him whilst he was sat outside a cafe- haha. A look of complete surprise. My 40+kg to his 10, maybe 15? Him and his mate passed me before I reached the top of the next hill, a friendly "Hello, you again?", they were standing on the pedals, rocking all over and sweating buckets but they did it, I didn't see them again.
Big drop on the N540 to a big climb on the N547, over the top to Palas De Rei. Campsite is next to sports centre with the Camino right alongside. Free for one night stays. Just got the tent up and a thunderstorm broke, 15.00 and I'm eating knorr dried pasta, listening to the rain and the walkers cursing.
Big steel windmill here, clunking and ringing all night, like someone throwing rocks at an empty skip. Showers in the pilgrim information centre next to the campsite running cold, waited, jumped in and out, soaped up, back in and the king thing is warm. Patience next time.....

Palas de Rei to Santiago, 03/09/04

2004-10-28T19:31:00.000+01:00

Palas to Santiago, lost my notes, problem.
I have been running on empty for the last 2 days, ever since cebreiro, and am not quite sure what has happened with my diary here.
Will be updating this from memory later.
However, here are a few photos to be going on with....

Arriving in Santiago proper.

Monument on the Mont de Gozo,
just outside Santiago

Link to live Santiago webcams.

www.campingascancelas.com

Santiago de Compostella, 04/09/04

2004-10-28T19:30:00.000+01:00

Day off. 040904
Sat in the tent last night and watched the lights in Santiago, I should have gone up to Gozo and watched from there.

Arriving at Santiago the Camino passes this monument
On top of the Mont de Gozo.

Nice monument, good view, but I couldn't summon the will to climb back up the hill, ha.
Booked in here for 2 nights but think I will stay for 3, get everything sorted, fix the hole in the tent inner, the squeak on the bike, get everything clean and wait for my legs to stop aching.

Tomb of Saint James the Pilgrim, Santiago

Santiago Cathedral

Internet is available in the cafe so I'm posting to this blog today.

Theo and Jannie have just arrived, have met them several times on the way here.
The Camino is different from the first riding I did in France. There it was a new site every day, new faces every day, nobody travelling in the same direction on the same route.
Here it's not the same, you join the Camino wherever and you join a group of people all doing the same trip. Passing the walkers only once (unless they catch a bus like the aussies). The cyclists tend to do similar distances every day. Bikes become familiar, you can tell at a distance people you have met before, luggage, style etc, maybe you have a good or bad day and meet other people, but days average out for people and friendships are quickly made.
Theo and Jannie are here for 3 nights same as me, the spanish girl turned up twice...once to help with the puncture and later at a campsite, one bloke I saw several times turned out to be English, a Londoner. He got his gears trashed on the flight over here, and is doing the Camino on his remaining 3 gears, he started in Pamplona. Frank I rode with for a week, maybe he will turn up here before I go, maybe not. I got the definate impression this was a last big trip, bow out with a bang, good luck to him wherever he is. Ironman.
A german couple kept turning up, they have a bob yak trailer hitched to a tandem (and I thought my rig was long.....). Where I have solar lights he has water carriers. The Italian pair turned up twice, once at a site then later on the road. 3 spanish sat at a picnic area before Sahagun, I joined them for a while waiting for Frank to catch up at the top of a long hill, out came their food, offered all around. Good people, they kept showing up. 2 Belgians passed me on the road on Honda Goldwings, sticking their legs out and waving. I passed them later on, then they passed me again waving. I got to Santiago and was walking around and they shouted me over to a cafe and bought me a beer. Chance meeting. Had driven the Camino from Belgium.
A very friendly and multinational affair all the way.
Everyone on the Camino is having a rough time, long days, hard work, sweat and blisters. The way is chosen for you, you have to climb those hills and have to stay the night on the route. Slog to a campsite or no sleep in a refuge, good or bad you get what you get, Everyone is in the same boat. Everyone pulls together. A fantastic atmosphere, all friendly, all helpful, all smiling.
There's another thunderstorm here, and people are getting soaked right now, all their gear, tiny tents and little experience and all I can hear is music, chattering, and laughter.
Superb.

Will be heading south next, into Portugal.

Santiago de Compostella to Sanxenxo, 56.1 miles, 06/09/04

2004-10-28T19:28:00.000+01:00

Tuesday? can't remember.

Misty start today, low cloud and everything damp. Santiago is hidden in a fog. That didn't deaden the fireworks though, every 20 minutes or so all day and a lot of the night, rockets and huge bangers going off. Sounds like a war zone here, maybe the Moors are all doing the Camino.
I didnt notice it so much at first, too busy sleeping, but after 2 nights rest it started to get a little "intrusive".
An invitation for coffee and breakfast from Theo and Jannie, very nice.
They have a perfect pitch here low down on the hill looking over the town. Same one he had 5 years ago the last time he did the Camino, only this time he's brought his new wife.
Swapped emails etc, if I dont make it to Italy then a run through Belgium to Holland is definately on the cards.
Paid up E23.50 for 3 nights... bargain. Theres a good supermarket, a bar/cafe, a laundry service, and internet at E4 an hour. "As Cancelas" off the Avenida de Lugo.
Getting out of Santiago is not too easy, looking for N550 and ended up on the C841. Problem.
The C841 not on my map, (another map misprint, its C541), through Puentevea, Cuntis, Caldas de Reis, Villagarcia, what a mess, another town to avoid, a complete dump and it goes on and on.....
Villanova nothing special, but Cambados a big surprise, taking the signs for through traffic aiming for Sanxenxo took me straight into the old town.
Granite sets, tourists with cameras, old buildings, nice cafes and bars, all stone built. An instant change from scruffy concrete and breezeblock houses, litter and peeling paint, within 50 yards I was riding through a picture postcard town. Lasted about 1/4 mile then back to the mess again.
First sight of the Atlantic here, could smell it for miles but now I'm riding alongside it, sea to sea again, 08.08.04 to 06.09.04.
Took the signs for A Toxa then turned off to Sanxenxo. Different town again, things got smarter as I approached. Fresh paint and no litter, good signs, no graffitti, this is more like northern France. Down to the seafront and a lovely beach with a big granite sea wall, all clean.
Follow this link for a view of a Live Sanxenxo wecam
A good town for a holiday. Rocky coastline here but with good beaches stretching in a big curve, a good view. Found the campsite east of the town, "Airinos de Mar", Playa de Areas.
A house/hotel/bar/cafe with camping in the back garden, 5 tents here now and peace and quiet, no fireworks!! Close enough to hear the sea (less than 100 yards), I will sleep well tonight, its only a 2 minute walk away. Will be there tomw morning early and quiet, feet in the Atlantic this time. That´ll be 2 oceans I've polluted so far on this trip haha.
Thunderstorm and raining, whats new, the rain in spain falls mainly on the cyclists.
Noticed a big difference after a few days off, my legs are stronger. 25 miles came up in no time at all, surprising as there were some decent hills earlier today. 56.14 miles in 4 h 49 min riding time.
Nice to be choosing my own route again, 6 supermarkets today, and camping wherever I want it.
The camino is a superb route, with amazingly friendly people, a world in itself- beautiful, but lack of sleep, and lack of good shops for long distances make it hard work, that said I would definately like to do it again someday. An experience not to be missed.
2936 miles now, a good day tomw will see me to 3000. I celebrated my first 1000 in France (near Le Blanc from memory) but I could not have possibly imagined the next 2000. wonder where I will be at 4000?

Sanxenxo Spain to Caminha Portugal, 87.3 miles 07/09/04

2004-10-28T19:24:00.000+01:00

sanxenxo spain to caminha portugal 87.3 miles 070904
Left Sanxenxo at about 10 am, a long ride along the coast on the VRG41. It's beautiful here, small boats everywhere on a calm sea with the same rocky coastline. Overcast today and about 25´c, much better here than the north of this peninsula.

Follow this link to see a live Sanxenxo webcam

Sanxenxo

To Pontevedra, a huge town, with not a single consideration for the cyclist.

Follow this link to see a live Pontevedra webcam

Busy main roads, dual carraigeways, and crazy drivers. The books say that Spain and Portugal have the highest accident rates in Europe, it's easy to see why.
Too Fast and all over the road!!
Most junctions here have a liberal sprinkling of glass and red and orange plastic shards, glass on the sides of the road is a constant worry. Good space at the edge of most of the roads, almost another lane, but parked cars and bottle banks surrounded by glass keep me pushed out into the traffic too much. These bottle banks are emptied at the side of the road where they stand with a small crane, into the back of a "pick up" style 7.5 tonne lorry, spilling glass fragments everywhere.
Huge junctions and traffic merging from the right, I'm Wide Awake.
I left town on the N550 to Redondela to Porrino, took a left turn onto the N120 to Ponteareas.

Redondela webcam here

My road atlas shows a campsite here but its closed, there's another one marked in A Caninza but thats over a big hill, and is it open? Should I risk getting that far inland this late in the day?
Its about 3pm and I head for the coast - Portuguese coast- I dont want to get into that motorway system again, not many small roads here, they're all big and fast.
South from Ponteareas to Salvatierra de Minho on PO403, bigger hills here, getting tired, worrying about camping for tonight. I dont speak Spanish or Portuguese, where the hell do I stay if I cant find a site, there's not enough cash in my pocket for a hotel. Franks "camp in the woods" may be a distinct possibility.
Cross the border, (a sign next to a bridge and thats it )

then turn right onto N101 to Valenca. See a cyclist pushing and stop to help, flat tyre, leaning against a fence to fix it. Turns out the "bar" behind the fence is a cathouse and all the ladies come out to watch.
Into Valenca, turn left at the first big roundabout onto the N13, flat knackered and not sure if I have the right road, I keep checking the map, slowly but surely. See a sign "parque de campismo", follow it.... nothing there. Follow the coast road to Caminha, a lovely town, the road runs right along the sea edge, absolutely beautiful, friendly people here, got some directions for a campsite.
"2km down the sea bank and turn right", I did a double-take (right?? into the sea???) There are no other options so I follow the road around the corner and theres a spit of land 1km long into the estuary with a campsite at the bottom.

Is 20.30, getting to dusk, 87.3 miles in 7h 44 mins, absolutely bolloxed, no food, no shower, tent up and sleep. I hope these riding conditions get better further south, I'm not just physically but mentally shattered today.

07.25 on the 8th and somebody parks a car next to the campsite fence, opens the doors and puts the stereo on full blast, HA!!!
Im not happy but feel ok now, every tent, Every Tent, has a confused, half asleep, blinking head sticking out.
Comical.
Scratching their heads and looking at each other with not a word spoken, pure Benny Hill.
10 miles down the coast is a larger site, washing facilities etc, fix the front gearshift cable, clean everything up.
Eat, Eat, Eat.
Looking at the map trying to figure out a way around Porto, decided to camp as close as possible to the north tomorrow and spend a day on it. More main roads, not looking forward to it, tomw should be a good day though, the N13 is a secondary road after Viana do Costelo, and a motorway runs right alongside, France and the N2020? I hope so.
From the glances I get to take, this is a beautiful country here, once I get off these main roads I'm really going to enjoy this!!

Caminha to Vila do Conde, Portugal, 09/09/04

2004-10-28T19:23:00.001+01:00

Caminha to Vila do Conde Portugal 09/09/04
Arrived here yesterday, it's only a few miles down the road from Caminha but is not in a town.... The site looks like a fairground from the road, pulled in to rest up and repair. Site called Camping Sereia Da Gelfa, E4.20 for 1 night.
Woke this morning to find an English couple camping about 30´ away, surfers, got lost yesterday and arrived late last night, they have a Lonely Planet guide for Portugal...handy, thanks for the loan.
I'm 5 miles down the road when they pass, heading south to the Algarve (no surf here) in a tiny yellow car packed full of gear with 4 surfboards strapped to the top.
Route today, N13 to Viano do Castello, got lost again, same old story, roadsigns atrocious.
Ok if you are on the dual carraigeway or motorway, or want to be on them, but otherwise? forget it...
I think you are expected to already know the place, all it takes is 1 wrong turn, 1 unsigned junction......enjoyable tour of the town though.
Went through a surprisingly steep underpass, picked up speed, no space just cars around me, and right at the bottom, in the tunnel in the dark the road is all broken and potholes. Adrenaline!
Dodging deep holes at speed in shadows made darker by the bright sunlight "outside".
There's a bus behind me, I nearly shat myself!! ha.
N13 south lovely road, rural, quiet, and mostly FLAT. Excellent riding here, negotiated the roadworks/diversions in Esposende to cross the river.

Esposende
The roads here are cobbled too, small granite sets 3" square and the guys laying them work whilst the road is still open, thats with Portuguese traffic not English!! Danger money for that job.
Side trip to Fao, beautiful fort, town is a little nondescript, bland, flat, but also quiet, clean, peaceful and friendly.
Further south is more agricultural, ancient pick ups loaded with veg chugging around, big roadside market stalls, produce for sale on the tarmac on rugs, dozens of small stalls.
Slow traffic, polytunnels, Lincolnshire with a good climate and a little spice, almost.
The flat strip is only 1/2 mile wide max, and the hills on my left for most of the day are full of villas, flash and above it all, looking across to the sea.
Tiny tractors full of veg with people riding on the carts, smiling and waving "buenos". Sometimes they laugh and point, sometimes cheer or shout (I think/hope it means faster faster). They shout from the cars and the lorries, the same thing and always with a smile. Everyone is interested here, very very friendly.
Can't say the same for the drivers, jekyll and hyde, put them in a car and they seem to turn into maniacs. Swerving all over, pulling out at junctions in front of anything, cutting up, I even saw a police car leaving the road today, onto the verge, realise and pull it back, at Speed.
Scary.
Tower blocks in the distance = Povoa de Varzim

Straight through the middle, a long straight road with lots of pedestrian crossings. Pedestrians don't wait for the traffic to stop here, they just step into the road. Cars can stop just a little faster than me and a closely missed rear end slows me down a lot, screeching tyres as a pram just "appears" on the road, no waiting.

Again the south of the town is nicer than the north, lots of new development, well laid out clean and smart. Fantastic fountain here, 2 pyramids, man on one woman on the other, water between their outstretched hands. Turned right and followed the sea for a while. Camping in Vila do Conde, the site belongs to the Portuguese climbing club, would you believe it? A month and more in the Pyrennees and not a sight of a climber, come to the flat seaside and find the climbing club!
Old guy showed me where to pitch, I'm right in the middle like a goldfish bowl. A kids play area, all sand and fag ends. The cafe crowd can see straight through the door and the promenaders are peering in at the gear whilst pretending not to, hmmmm.
Wondered about all the caravans being sheeted over with plastic, I just found out why, thousands of starlings have arrived from nowhere, big pine trees here are full of them - a huge racket.
There's a sea fog coming in and the foghorn has started, the air-raid warning type, I hope it doesnt last all night.
2 beers from the shop and a stack of milk, hotdogs and eggs from some kids that were leaving (I think they took pity, lost another belt, bootlace for the trousers again) and I have more food than I can carry. Mosquitos and patrolling security guards take the place of the foghorn to keep me awake, ahh well.

Vila do Conde through Porto

2004-10-28T19:21:00.000+01:00

Vila do Conde

Through to Porto.
Have been wondering how to deal with Porto for a while, looked at the maps etc, compared routes and changed my mind every time.

The problem with road maps is that you can see where to go and how to get there, but you cant tell a single thing about what it will be like on the way.
I settled on a route following the coast as closely as possible right into Porto, round on the northern riverbank, find and cross the middle bridge

and exit on the N1.
Sounds simple eh??
The map doesnt tell that the smaller coastal roads are all cobbled not tarmac, and that the cobbles arent laid on an even surface. The roads are all mounds and troughs, stones are twisted, high and low, it's a boneshaker of a ride.
To help matters along it was raining this morning, I was stood at the campsite gate (you cant leave yet,it isnt 09.00) and the sky got darker and darker. Riding through a dripping eucalyptus forest on a slippery shiny, teeth chattering with the bumps and everything on the bike squeaking.
Marvellous.
Complete lack of signposting again, there's a signpost for the school, the pharmacy, the library etc, but absolutely nothing to tell you which village you are in, or which road leads to which other road. I gave up after an hour and headed east to find a tarmac road.
Got onto the N13 and followed it instead, plan B, aim straight for the middle of town and see what happens.
I've been driving for 18 years and have never seen anything like the N13 southbound into Porto.
Imagine the busiest road you have ever seen, add to that a smashed and shattered road edge to ride on, speeding drivers, gusts of wind from huge battered old trucks, roadworks, cars and lorries parked randomly, masses of smoke from knackered old engines, lanes blocked by accidents, prostitutes sat on the armco in laybys, beggars holding up babies at traffic lights, large angry dogs running loose on the verges attacking at will, window cleaning gangs hassling for cash, fly tipping anything anywhere and everywhere, and more broken glass and plastic scattered around than I could possibly avoid.
Cook all this up to a sunny 30+´c and then go and explore it on a bicycle.
I will never be worried about riding anywhere else ever again, this was the absolute, the worst of the worst, king nightmare, and at the end it was the choice of 2 motorways.
I took a sign for Gondomar and a relatively quiet (?) dual carraigeway, lost again looking for Gondo´, found myself on a flyover bridge over a silent motorway, no cars and 2 lanes?, huge hard shoulder?, new tarmac?, suits you sir! that will do nicely.
The IC29 took me out of town, another ghost road, going nowhere. Up the hill at the end then to Foz de Sousa, tiny cobbled roads again sometimes just wide enough for 1 car(no bike), waited for a ford fiesta to feel its way around a particularly sharp corner.
Down to the N108 to cross the river Douro at the dam.

This is a beautiful place, high steep hills dropping straight into a wide strong river, blue green water, if you ride back up towards Porto a little you can see up the river for miles, small beaches dotted with multicoloured boats, and a winding twisting river. Porto on the horizon, beautiful.
Over the top of the dam and the plan is backroads to Espinho, camp, sorted.
Only the roads dont match the ones on my map, the turnings dont have town names that are on my map, stuck again, unless you want Sandim, the signs all seem to point there!
Plan B again, keep going till you are in a town that is on your map, and that town was?..... Porto, again, the N222 NOOOO!!
At least I'm on the right side of the river now. N222, Av de Vasco de Gamma, Av de Republica, N1, the road I've been wanting all day.
I'm 200 yards from it checking the map again, (do I go up the ramp or down the underpass?) and a voice asks in perfect english, "do you need any help? - do you speak english?"
I've been asking directions all day and nobody has been able to help, and now 200 yds from sanctuary, help appears :)) these people are amazing, lovely. Was nice to talk for a few minutes, "Do I speak english, I Am english" N1 south, some of it is rough, some beautiful, its all interesting. Got more directions for the campsite, squeezed through a closed/broken railway crossing barrier to follow the signs, (well, everyone else was doing it), and am camped at Esmoriz, just south of Espinho, big site, very friendly, tent up write and sleep, 76 miles 09.00 to 19.30, not a chance of me riding through Lisbon, I´ll go around.

Esmoriz to Mira, 12/09/04. 80 miles

2004-10-28T19:20:00.000+01:00

Parque de Campismo de Esmoriz E14.40
www.terravista.pt/portosanto/2693
email ccporto@mail.telepac.pt
Mira site = Camping Vila Caia E6.30 1 night

Esmoriz to Mira 12.09.04 80 miles
A perfect day.
Could not have been better. I got directions from the campsite reception to the N109 and followed it to just before Esterreja to the N124 east to N1 / IC2 south to Mealhada, then N234 west through Cantanhede to Mira, 80 miles.
Left camp at 08.00 and arrived here 20.00 (ish).
Plenty of stops, 6h 29 min riding time.
Total miles now 3241.
Today it felt like someone had flicked a switch and all the junk had just vanished.
Perfect roads, perfect signposting, sunshine all day and beautiful scenery.
Amazing.
The IC 2 gets 10/10 for everything and today ranks among one of the best days of the trip.
From small villages to big towns, woodlands to fields, empty long straight roads to twisting through small hills.
A superb bridge over the River Agueda (IC 2) topped it all, with villages below me and a view for miles from both sides.
Now I’m getting to see Portugal, not the inner cities that are the same all over, or the motorways and traffic that can be found anywhere, today was fantastic – recommended route – do this again sometime.
Cyclists everywhere today. Saw a few tourers around Ovar. One guy with a trailer, but he was all flash with everything expensive new and shiny, cycling clothes – new helmet – wraparound shades ( HA!) Travelling the other way, going north, he lifted his hand but didn’t turn his head.
It seems everyone has a bike here and today was cycling day!
Lots of car dealerships and ceramics shops today too, everything from vintage Simcas to brand new 4x4, all polished up at the sides of the road. Ceramics mainly roof tiles, building blocks, concrete panels…. Anything for the house, there’s a lot of building going on around here.
Huge restaurants with packed carparks this afternoon, does everyone go out for “Sunday lunch” here? Traffic stopped and queuing in places to let the pedestrians across to the restaurants (near Mealhada).
Phone is playing up again, I bought an emergency charger over the internet, it allows me to plug in a standard 9v battery and charge the phone, but somewhere between the battery and the phone there is a loose connection. I haven’t looked specifically for a new one but haven’t seen any on sale here.
Not good, I don’t want to loose touch with people, especially Zarah.

Mira to Figueira da Foz 13/09/04

2004-10-28T19:18:00.000+01:00

Parque de Campismo da Figueira Da Foz
www.figueiracamping.com

13.09.04 Monday? Mira to Figuera de Foz
Complete lack of motivation today.
Took the N109 south, bad road for about 6/7 miles, then it picks up, better surface.
25miles to Figuera de Foz.
A long (and for the most part) straight road.
Woodland exceptional. Mimosa, Birch, Beech, Eucalyptus, Pine and a lot more I don’t recognise, very good to ride here.
The lorries are back with a vengeance, they don’t give much. Move out an inch or two but that’s your lot.
Red lights on this road don’t seem to count for anything, people just drive straight through them. I think they just cycle on timers without sensors and the side roads are so quiet that people just drive straight on. Surprising at first, stood at a red light and a lorry flies past.
Not seen Mira, not done much.
Left this am at 11.00 and arrived Figuera at 14.00
This town is on a hill with an excellent view from the top of the approach.
No strength in my legs and no will to move on.
An Intermarche day, less than a mile from the campsite…..perfect.
Z cheered me up, TXT 78, I felt better for that.
Lots of space at the back here, top site, wouldn’t have guessed it from the looks of the caravan village just through the gate.

Figuera da Foz, to Olhau (Setubal) to 19/09/04

2004-10-28T19:17:00.000+01:00

Figuera to Nazare, Castelo de Bode, Alpairca, Outao (Setubal) 4 days diary
3 night stay at Camping Outao = E21
Nazare site = Vale Paraiso
www.valeparaiso.com

14/15/16/17/18and 19.08.04 to Setubal

Not done a complete route for a while……
Castro Jeriz BU410 to BU411 to P431 Fromista, Carion Los Condes (campsite),

N120 Sahagun. N120 to N601 to Mansilla las Mulas (campsite),

N601 Leon, N120 Astorga, LE142 Murias, El Ganso, Rabanal Del Camino, Foncebadon, Manjarin (guy with 1000 roadsigns), Acebo, Molinesca, Ponferrada (campsite),

NV1 to Villafranca, Cebreiro, LU634 to Hospital, Ponfria, Lamas, Triacastela (refugio),

Samoa, Sarria, C535 Portomarin, N540 to N547 Palas du Rei (campsite),

N547 to Santiago (campsite).

Leaving Santiago on C541 (wrong number on roadsign/map?) Puentevea, N640 Cuntis, Caldas du Rei, Vilargarcia, Cambados, Sanxenxo (campsite),

VRG 41 to Pontevedra, N550 to Redondela, Porrino, N120 Ponteareas, PO403 Salvatierra de Minho, (cross border to Portugal), N101 Valenca, N13 Caminha (campsite)

N13 Viana do Costelo, N13 Esposende, Povoa de Varzim, Vila do Conde (campsite)

Backroads to N13 to Porto, IC29 to Foz de Sousa, to N108 cross dam backroads (!) to N222 Porto , N1, backroads to esmoriz (campsite)

N109 to N224 east to IC2 to Mealhada, n234 to Cantanhede, Mira (campsite)

N109 Figuera de Foz (campsite)

N109 Leiria, N242 Marinha Grande, N242 Nazare (campsite)

N242 north to Martinganca, N356 to Batalha, Fatima, to N113 Tomar, N358-2 to Castelo du Bode (campsite)

N110 Entroncamento, N365 to N243 Alpairca, N118 to Almerim, N118 Salvaterra, Porto Alto, N10 to Setubal (Outao).

Ok,
That’s the route recorded, haven’t written since the 13th, arriving at Figuera de Foz.
Too many miles on dangerous roads, not enough to eat and very very hot here.
My head went.
Had 2 nights at Figuera, a nice site on a hill next to 2 supermarkets, Leclerk and Intermarche.
Pissed off completely, overtired and worried about dealing with Lisbon.
All the roads since Porto have been relatively good, they have bad stretches but nothing like Porto. The traffic varies between horrendous, idiots in lorries etc, to nothing at all, empty roads. He further south I travel the better it gets, road surfaces are better – no cobbles here, only find them on the tiny backroads and in the towncentres – which are generally well kept, good riding.
Signposting has improved dramatically, no more navigation problems.
Careful vandalism to the roadsigns means you cant tell how far to the next town, the vandals have smashed or removed the distance parts of almost all of the signs, but generally you can tell where you are and that you are on the right track.
Roads, on average, are quieter and more drivers give more room to the bike here.
Dogs are still a problem, with dead ones everywhere on the roads. Not just small dogs, there are some large powerful animals here, boxers particularly. Dead on the tarmac, mummified skins and bones all along the hard shoulder and verges.
Campsites are variable, some very basic with bad facilities, others better, but nothing approaching the French standards, although the prices are lower here and it is out of season now.
Campsites inland are mostly closed, did 90 miles yesterday from Alpairca to Setubal to find this one. Excellent spot here now, right on the shoreline between the road and the sea. Can see the town (Setubal) to my left along the bay, and the Peninsula de Troia looks like an island from here.
Will be here a few days and rest up a little, have got my head sorted out again, ready to ride!! but am physically shattered with not having more than 2 consecutive days off since Perpignan. From memory, including today, 5 days without riding since leaving the Mediterranean, with 2 of those in Santiago. My knees hurt, my legs ache, I’m thinking very slowly, it’s to be expected on a trip like this I suppose, so no complaints, but it needs putting right before I continue.
Landscape has been a lot flatter for the last few days, some hills around Fatima, (1 big hill!) but nothing really serious. Rolling countryside, small towns, very very picturesque. I like it here there’s a good light, very bright and flat, makes colours very vivid. Maybe reflected by the land and water?
Farmland here not much good, is all sand and stones. Mostly trees, vineyards, maize (corn), the odd melon field and masses of tomato fields. The plants are not supported at all, they are just left to trail along the ground tangling together.
Passed the Heinz factory yesterday near Benavente, hundreds of tractor trailers, bulkers 20 tonnes and more all parked up fully loaded in the yard, with even more still driving on the roads. All the trailers were loaded to the absolute max with fruit falling off as they drove leaving a giant “tomato juice slick” along the edge of the road from Alpairca onwards. Overloaded trailers driving far too fast.
Am glad I’m straightened up again, the roads in Northern Portugal really knocked it out of me. Was considering quitting and flying home from Faro, thinking not now, got around Lisbon, the next big obstacle will be the motorways around Sevilla

Setubal to Melides, 21/09/04

2004-10-28T19:15:00.000+01:00

Clube de Campismo de Lisboa 1 night E16.20
21.09.04 Setubal to Melides 69.26 miles
69.26 miles in 5h 48min riding time. 3579 miles total now.
Left the campsite and the flies at 09.00.
Another Dutch couple cycling, arrived at Outao same time as me. They had given up and were catching the train to Faro. They started at Porto, their first cycling holiday… 2.5 weeks cycling in Portugal, their first time riding abroad together.
Mistake. Should have chosen France.
Mixture of long empty roads and busy stretches today.
Met another Dog Problem first thing this morning, was climbing the hill away from the campsite when a pitbull came running like hell towards me, straight down the middle of the road, passed me without a glance. 150 yards further on, round a bend and in the shade of some trees and there’s an alsation and a bigger, long legged mongrel trotting down the road, matted fur and hyper excited. There were more dogs barking in the trees on both sides of the road, was no traffic around, and I was climbing a steep hill with a heavy load.
Awkward situation.
Stood up on the pedals, traveling as fast as I could (10 mph HA!) straight at them whilst shouting at the top of my voice. There was a little confusion for a moment, then they both gave me a Long Look, then trotted off into the trees, thank God!
Setubal traffic mad, lorries, lorries and more lorries, all cutting the corners as they turned, chewing up the dust and the verges past the hard shoulders. Old Portuguese guy on a bike cursing them as they missed him by inches. Left town via the industrial district, followed the coast with the sea to my right. Past the 2 chimneys and onto the N10 next to the Ibis Hotel, 10 miles back out on the road I came in on. It’s a terrible surface but that doesn’t slow these people down, they just bounce past at the same speeds. Crazy.
Onto the IC1 (or N5, depending which signs you believe), a long, empty, desert of a road through cork oak forests and mountains of plastic litter.
Gypsie type travelers stop at the sides of the road here and nobody seems to clean up the mess they leave behind. A sure indicator is a plastic bag tied to the branches of a tree overhanging the road, a kind of “camp here” sign. Every time without fail, just past the bags, and it’s a complete dump.
Layby’s here all have something for sale, either fruit and veg stalls or a couple of girls in miniskirts.
Tree roots push up the road edge in huge mounds, awkward to spot in the bright sun/shade contrasts.
Big, ranch - type gateways painted white every couple of miles, but you don’t see the houses, just an unmade road twisting off through the cork trees. The bark of the trees is all harvested up to about 7 or 8 feet from the ground with the year written on them in white spray paint. Fresh ones from this year are a glowing orange colour. Lorries piled high with bark have been passing me all day.
Nice landscape here, rolling hills maybe 100’ high, one after another.
HOT though, 38’c whilst moving.
Cold water and “Walls Magnums” from the fridges in the petrol stations, strange looks from the sales reps in their shiny suits and cars.
Lots of waves today, passing cars blowing horns.
Aussie surfers in one filling station, X reg (English plates) VW Combi, have driven from London to surf Portugal! Then onto Canada!?!
A good laugh
.
“you’ve come from Where?? “,
England
“and you’re going WHERE ??”
Gibraltar
“Madman!”
Ha

IC1 to IC33 (IP8 signs again) just above Grandola climbed up to 1000’ on the edge of the Sierra de Grandola, then downhill to Melides, a beautiful run to the coast. IC33 (IP8) and N261.2 perfect roads for riding. Campsite past the village towards the coast. When you lose the signs saying ‘Campismo’ then guess and turn left, works every time.
Huge site here but all the pitches taken by touring caravans made permanent. They all have awnings and marquees built over them. Potted plants, picket fences and crazy paving. Looka ok though, is clean and very quiet, not a soul around. Am camped on someones parking spot, ahh well, he’s not here.
EXPENSIVE E16.20 a night.

Melides to Vila nova de Milfontes, 22/09/04

2004-10-28T19:12:00.000+01:00

Sitava Camping E6.50
22.09.04 wed Melides to Vila Nova de Milfontes 45 miles
45 miles in 4h 0min riding time. 3624 miles total.
Backroads to N621 to Santiago, N120 (starts before Santiago??) to IC4 to Cercal, N390 to Melides. Campismo sign says 4km, wrong! Is 4 miles.
Beautiful roads all the way – hills and valleys – excellent. The road leaving Cercal climbs and then runs along a hilltop/mountaintop ridge for 2 to 3 miles with views down 1000’ each side through the cork oak forests. Cattle here and the farmers/ranchers are driving around in Japanese 4x4, all wearing cowboy hats and check shirts, straight out of Hollywood, its almost a uniform, all the same Ha.
The houses are all the same too, all painted white, single storey, dotted around the hills.
Hot again today, 36’c (riding), found an Intermarche supermarket whilst leaving Santiago on the Cercal road, airconditioning , food and cold drinks, a lifesaver.
This town is built on the side of a hill. Theres a castle on top that you can see for miles on the way in. A 200 or 300 foot climb up to it, not a lot but its Vsteep and Hot. Guy with the traffic control flag at the roadworks near the top of the hill stopped the traffic and let me through, all the road gang were cheering me on……. A little embarrassing but a good vibe.
Chain keeps jumping off when changing down to front first, maybe getting a little slack, its done 6000 km or so now, will get a new one in Faro.
Celebrated 6000km with Zarah, a remote toast by SMS text message, “ready” “now” and I’m drinking here at the same moment that she is in Cambodia, (19.30pm Portuguese) a bottle of stout versus hot chocolate, very nice, thank you Z.
The alcohol knocked me out for a couple of hours, I’m not used to it, needed a cold shower when it got dark and cooler.
Big 4* site here, lots of space and a good pitch, I can hear large waves breaking somewhere close by, same as last night. Not seen the sea since the north, apart from Setubal, but that was a flat calm estuary. Sounds good, will have to go look before I get onto the southern coast and the straits of Gibraltar.
Cercal’s a nice town. A big lawned roundabout/junction in the centre with lots of space. Pavement cafes all packed with people watching the traffic pass by, is like France.
Only done 45 miles today, but I’m knackered again. Maybe the hills and climate, maybe the 69 miles yesterday, who knows. Will find somewhere decent on the south coast and rest up again. Cant get much hotter surely now, am almost as far south as I can go.

Vila Nova de Milfontes to Aljezur, 23/09/04

2004-10-28T19:10:00.000+01:00

Parque de Campismo do Serrao 1 night E7.95
Hilltop, empty
email camping-serrao@clix.pt
23.09.04 Thursday, Vilanova de Milfontes to Aljezur. 44 miles
44 miles in 3h 47min riding time.
Unremarkable day really.
Bridge over the Rio Mira at Milfontes is a beautiful spot. Small boats fishing in a smooth blue estuary.
N393 towards Odemira has a junk surface, terrible, but picks up joining the N120 south to Sao Teotonio, small hills and good scenery.
Quiet day for traffic, seeing some English vehicle number plates now. Camper vans heading south, the first I’ve seen in any number since France.
Strong headwind now for 2 days, I hope it doesn’t continue, makes it hard going. Only 40 miles and I’m knackered again.
Big, empty campsite just above Aljezur, putting up the tent on a rocky, sandy, dusty surface in a strong wind…hmmmm…interesting. Facilities here all shut down, the shop is closed so I’m finishing off the last of the dried pasta meals tonight, not the best Ha.
30 km or so now until the south coast, if this wind continues there then at least it will be across me rather than against.

Aljezur to Lagos, 24/09/04

2004-10-28T19:08:00.000+01:00

Lagos site = Parque de Campismo de Trinidade E5.70
24.09.4 Aljezur to Lagos. 26.5 miles
26.5 miles in 4h riding time
Campsite was about a mile north of Aljezur on the top edge of another mesa type hill, good site but the facilities were all closed. I left late, at about 10.30.
N120 into the Sierra de Espinhaco, small mountains about 1000’ high at the most.
A scenic ride on a good road, not much traffic and a beautiful run downhill on the southern side, miles and miles of it, haha.
My roadmap shows the N120 joining the IC4 , not a problem, only when I got there I found its not the IC4…. It’s the A22 motorway, problem. Stopped to check the map, yes, its wrong. Was spotted by an English family that were out gardening in front of their house above the roundabout at the start of the A22. They were shouting whistling and waving, “don’t use that road!!”
I don’t have much choice, I’m not going around, its only 3 or 4km at most and it’s a brand new road with a perfect surface. The hard shoulder is 12 feet wide and spotlessly clean. Got to junction 1 looking for my road off, the N120 into Lagos, and its another motorway, the map’s wrong again. The 3 km turned into 10km, but with very little traffic about.
Lagos is a small town that is rapidly building itself up, construction work everywhere.
Plenty of supermarkets and excellent shops, but also plenty of English tourists about. They all seem to have brought their one-upmanship with them too….. my caravan’s better than your caravan etc etc. Golfing clothes and “how much cash can you flash” at the till in the shops. Its nice to hear English spoken again by native speakers after so long on my own, but not too good to listen to what they’re saying, or watch how they are behaving.
The town campsite is absolute shite, full of buskers and drug dealers, people squatting in abandoned caravans and camper vans on flat tyres, falling to pieces with rust and age, the place looks like a scrapyard. End of the road for travelers run out of funds and all of them on the scrounge. Mixed in are a few English, german and French camper vans, new and expensive….the owners look a little lost, confused and sheepish – definitely out of place here – not what they expected on the Algarve perhaps?
The ground is like concrete. 2” of sand and then solid, I broke 3 tent pegs trying to hammer them in with a borrowed rock. Other tents are guyed up with rocks and bric a brac, anything heavy enough to take the weight. Of the 5 pegs I have managed to place in one end of my tent only 1 of them is good, my bike inside leaning against the other end is all that’s keeping it all together.
In 4 months I have slept with my boots on twice… this was one of the times. The crazy lady in the bender with her cats and guitar kept me awake, not a chance of me using earplugs here! Shouting and shrieking at the shadows, an insane mixture of belly laughs, grunts, growls and invented language ( with the odd perfect English here and there).
A tiny dome tent with a pile of dried vomit outside is my other neighbour, I cant see him, but the door is open and its just as bad inside. Site security is letting anybody wander in and out through the gate as they play on their PS2 regardless, then to top it all off, I stood in some half buried catshit without noticing and tracked it into the tent……
Marvelous,
Tramps all here for the winter climate.
Welcome to the Algarve.
Human Zoo.

Lagos to Olhau, 25/09/04

2004-10-28T19:07:00.000+01:00

25.09.04 Lagos to Olhau 65.5 miles
65.5 miles in 4h 55min
Up early….Surprise!
The vomit encrusted tent still shows no sign of life, and as Im taking down my own I keep stepping in more camouflaged catshit scattered about the place.
I left easily enough.
N125 east, fairly level road with a few small hills but mostly good going with a sunny 30’c and a following wind. The riding feels different here, I feel exposed and on show, definitely don’t feel safe. The people I pass don’t watch me in the same way as elsewhere, they have a predatory look to them, weighing me up. I think a lot of people have passed this way doing what I am doing, and the locals and skint travelers are all looking for an easy target. I didn’t get this feeling in France, or on the Camino, or even in Northern Portugal. Here I think its far away from most peoples homes for them to be tiring, there are cyclists here from Germany, France and Holland, maybe the odd one falls prey to this place and this encourages the attention of the local lowlife. Its not a countryside ride here, not an exploration meeting locals and other travelers, I feel that there are spiderwebs all around and I’m the fly.
This may seem a small thing, but its made a huge difference to my riding, a feeling of insecurity is not needed…. Im tired enough thanks.
I passed behind and north of most of the Algarve coastal towns riding on the N125. Through Faro, and will be back into Spain on my next riding day. I’m hoping that this doesn’t continue through Spain. I will be passing through a lot of tourist towns busier than this one and it will be a long ride if the locals aren’t friendly.

Olhau to Bellavista(Huelva), 01/10/04

2004-10-17T15:34:00.000+01:00

6 nights at Camping Olhau = E32.39
01.10.04 Olhau to Bellavista (Huelva) 60 miles
60 miles in 4h 30mins
3820 total miles
Route today, Olhau N125 through Tavina, (Luz de Tavira – a beautiful town) N125 to Vila Real de Santo Antonio, - ferry -, Ayamonte, N431 to Lepe, Carteya, to N492 to Aljaraque, Bellavista.
I had 6 nights at Olhau, absolutely shattered. Slept almost constantly for 2 nights and 2 days when I arrived.
Cycling Portugal has really hit me hard, dangerous roads, packs of dogs, heat, and the atmosphere here. Not just physically tired but psychologically hammered too.
Olhau has a superb campsite, a well stocked supermarket, internet access, plenty of well kept pitches (I’m camping on grass!!!), its an absolute godsend.
Lots of rest and I’m straightened out again and ready for Spain.
The last few miles of Portugal were on good roads through orange and lemon groves, with golf courses lining the sides of the road.
Caught the ferry across the river border, E1.70 for both me and the bike and a 15 minute trip took me back into Spain.
Excellent.
Landed in Ayamonte and took the tiny cobbled streets to the top of the town, away from the river. Too narrow for cars to pass me so I had quite a tailback when I reached the top, no aggression from them though, they just patiently followed me. Back down the hill on tarmac to the N431 and already I can tell Im back in Spain. A huge road, a wide clean hard shoulder, no speeding drivers and no sign of any dogs yet.
Couldn’t find the campsite at Lepe so kept going through to Bellavista, “Camping Las Vegas”. Well, its not a good view and its definitely not Vegas. Not using the showers here tonight, a choice between stink and the plague. Zarah voted for stink, so watch out Sevilla tomorrow!
2 German lads just arrived here from Alicante. Traded useful info for later on on our routes as they are doing the same trip as me but the other way around. Nobody else here.
This was the only time on the trip that I didn’t pay for the nights camping. The owner was too lazy to ask us for details and ID, too lazy to look after his site, and too lazy to get up in the morning to collect his cash. At 9am we all knocked, all shouted, and all left without paying.

Bellavista (Huelva) to Sevilla, 02/10/04

2004-10-16T20:18:00.000+01:00

unfinished
Camping "Sevilla" 1 night E6.42
Right on the airport fence.....

Sevilla to Rota, Chipiona. 3 nights 03/10 to 06/10

2004-10-16T20:16:00.000+01:00

Camping Playa Aguadulce, Carretera Rota Chipiona (Cadiz)
www.vayacamping.net/aguadulce
3 nights E19.16
email cplayag@navegalia.com

Webcameras en route

2004-10-16T19:48:00.000+01:00

I'm slowly building a collection of live webcams that show areas that I passed through on my trip.

Below is a list of cameras linked so far......Yellow = camlink

St Peter Port Guernsey

View of the harbour ---
blog entry

Pyrennees around Lourdes
French weather station, 3 cameras on top of a mountain. Showing Tourmalet.
(scroll down their page, lots of detail there) ---blog entry

The Grotto at Lourdes
A loop playing continuously with links to other views of the complex. ---blog entry

Rosary Basillica, Lourdes
A loop playing continuously with links to other views of the complex. ---blog entry

Le Canigou
View of Le Canigou. The mountain overlooking Ceret and Perpignan.

Perpignan
High view of the gardens of Le Palais Roix Majorques and overlooking Perpignan beyond.

Argeles sur Mer
View of the mediterranean / beach and the mountains towards Spain. The start of my Camino de Santiago "proper". Good picture.

Logrono
Torre de San Bartolame. View from a rooftop over the town. Large cam window.

Burgos
La Plaza Santo Domingo

O Cebriero
1 camera on top of the mountain ---blog entry

Santiago de Compostella
9 cameras in and around the city. Checkout Santiago - Obradoiro, Quintana for close views of Santiago Cathedral ---blog entry

Sanxenxo
2 cameras showing the coastal area ---blog entry

Pontevedra
1 camera showing the city ---blog entry

Redondela
1 camera ---blog entry

Link Code

2004-10-16T19:46:00.000+01:00

If you would like to place a link to Hit The Road in your own website, please feel free to use the following code.
Just copy and paste the HTML below.

This is how it will appear on your site.

To adjust or replace the text appearing when the mouse is hovered over the button, simply edit and adjust the title field in the HTML below.

Enjoy the Ride!
Rob

Live Santiago webcameras

2004-10-16T19:41:00.000+01:00

A spanish language website, www.crtvg.es, maintains a collection of links to live webcameras in the North Western corner of Spain. It's user friendly and easy to understand even if you don't speak Spanish.

Their website includes cameras in the following places on my route through Spain.

O Cebriero, 1 camera on top of the mountain.

Santiago de Compostella, 9 cameras in and around the city. Checkout Santiago - Obradoiro, Quintana for close views of Santiago Cathedral.

Sanxenxo, 2 cameras showing the coastal area.

Pontevedra, 1 camera showing the city

Redondela, 1 camera.

Puente Del Orbigo

2004-10-16T17:27:00.000+01:00

Puente del Orbigo, the bridge of Honourable Passage. Honourable Passage? The story says in 1434 a Knight and 10 of his friends defended this bridge against all comers for a month, with an open challenge to all the Knights of Europe. He survived the month and went on to pilgrimage to Santiago.